Dart Introduction
Fabric is flat. Bodies are not. A dart is the small stitched wedge that closes the gap between the two, and it is one of the most useful shaping tools you have.
Shifting Dart Location
A bust dart can move to almost any edge of the pattern without changing the fit. Only the outside shape of the piece changes. The fabric over the body stays the same.
Dart Tucks
A dart tuck is a dart that is stitched only part of the way toward its point. The stitching stops early and the rest of the fabric is left open, so the extra releases into a soft fold. You still get the shaping of a dart, without the sharp, tailored line.
Multiple Darts
You do not have to use a single dart. The same amount of fullness can be split into several darts, or turned into gathers, tucks or pleats. It changes the look of the garment, not the fit. These are called dart equivalents.
Darts in Seams
A dart does not have to end as a stitched triangle in the middle of a pattern piece. Cut the pattern into panels along a style seam, and the dart can disappear into the seam itself. The fit over the bust stays the same.
Yokes
A yoke is a shaped panel across the shoulders, the chest or back, or the hips, joined to the rest of the garment with a seam. Its main job is to keep the upper area smooth and close to the body while letting you release fullness below it, as gathers, tucks or pleats. The yoke seam can also hide a dart, so the visible darts can be smaller.