Multiple Darts
Several darts may be used instead of a single dart to create more original designs. This transfer of fullness will not change the original fit of the garment.
As an example, converting a single waist dart into gathered shoulder fullness is an effective way to create soft drape without altering the foundational fit of the garment. By transferring the total volume of the original waist dart to the shoulder, the contouring over the bust is maintained, but the rigid stitched points are replaced with fluid, unstitched fabric.
Dividing Dart Intake
To distribute the fullness smoothly, multiple slash lines are used instead of a single cut. In the illustration below, five slash points are distributed evenly across the front shoulder seam. Each slash line is drawn radiating from the shoulder directly down to the bust apex.
Waist Dart Shifted to Multiple Darts at Shoulder
This draft image is the result of the PatternMaker Pro Move Dart to Multiple tool, which makes quick work of the process.
Multiple Dart Transfer Sewn
The Manual Drafting Process
- Define the Target Area: Mark multiple target slash points on the pattern edge (such as along the shoulder line).
- Slash the Pattern: Cut along each of the five new slash points from the shoulder down to the apex, leaving a tiny, flexible paper hinge exactly at the bust point.
- Close the original dart: Pivot the waist dart legs together until they meet and touch, completely closing the original waist intake.
- Distribute the spread: As the waist dart closes, the five shoulder slashes will naturally fan open. Space these gaps evenly to distribute the fullness proportionally across the shoulder seam.
Truing the Shoulder Line
Fanning open multiple slash lines creates a stepped, jagged edge along the shoulder pattern piece. To finalize the pattern, draw a new, smooth curve connecting the uppermost points of these jagged edges. This blended line becomes your new stitching line.
Controlling Gathers During Construction
While the cut edge of the front shoulder is now significantly longer to accommodate the newly added fullness, the finished edge must ultimately match the length of the back bodice shoulder seam.
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Establish Gathering Boundaries: Add notches roughly 1/2" to 1" (13 mm to 25 mm) away from both the neckline and the armhole. Keeping the gathered stitches strictly between these boundaries ensures the fabric lays perfectly flat at the neck and sleeve intersections.
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Match and Assemble: Gather or smock the excess fabric evenly between the control notches until the front shoulder length perfectly matches the straight back shoulder seam for assembly.