Darts in Seams
A dart does not have to end as a stitched triangle in the middle of a pattern piece. Cut the pattern into panels along a style seam, and the dart can disappear into the seam itself. The fit over the bust stays the same.
How a Seam Absorbs a Dart
When a style seam passes through the bust apex, the whole dart intake can go into the seam. The seam splits the pattern into panels, the dart is no longer needed, and the curved edges of the panels now do the shaping.
Common places to use it:
- Princess Seams: A style line from the armhole or shoulder, over the apex, down to the waist or hem.
- Yokes: A seam across the chest through the apex, taking up a vertical shoulder or neck dart.
- Diagonal and Asymmetrical Seams: Geometric panels where the seams meet at the bust point.
You do not have to go "directly through the apex." A yoke line that goes through or close to the dart point lets you close the dart and move its excess into the seam.
Start a princess line bodice from a two-dart front sloper. That gives the side front panel a clear grainline that hangs plumb from top to bottom. A one-dart sloper leaves you guessing where it belongs.
Step by Step: Separating Into Panels
- Draw the Style Line: Draw the seam across the pattern so it goes through the bust apex.
- Cut Along the Seam: Cut the pattern apart on the new line into separate panels, such as Center Front and Side Front.
- Close the Dart: On the right panel, pivot the dart legs until they meet. The shaping moves into the cut edges of the style seam.
- True the Seams: Smooth any sharp angles along the new edges, and make sure the seams that will be sewn together are the same length.
- Add Notches: Put matching notches on both cut edges near the apex, so the pieces line up when you sew.
Sewn Yoke Pattern
When the Seam Misses the Apex
If your style line passes beside the apex and not through it, the seam can not take up the whole dart. You have to deal with what is left over.
The farther the seam is from the bust point, the more extra fabric you get if you put the entire dart into it. The nearer it is, the less. So divide the dart, and put the rest somewhere else:
| Where the Seam Is | What to Do With the Dart |
|---|---|
| Through the apex | All of it goes into the seam. |
| Close to the apex | Most of it goes into the seam. Leave a small amount as a dart or tuck, or ease it into the seam. |
| Farther away | Divide the dart: keep part as a smaller dart or tuck, and ease or gather the rest into the seam. |
Gathers below a yoke are a handy place to hide what is left. The leftover from the dart goes into the slashes for fullness.
Using PatternMaker Pro
The Move Dart tool moves 100% of the waist dart intake to the slash point on the side seam. Then use the Remove Dart tool on the new dart. That leaves the pattern ready to separate into two pieces and have seam allowances added.