Facings & Edge Finishes
Every edge on a pattern has to be finished somehow. Most edges are finished by sewing them to another edge, like a side seam or a center back seam.
The edges left over can be turned under, or covered with a smaller matching pattern piece called a facing. You can also dress an edge up with cording, piping, binding or a casing. A waistband is how a pair of pants finishes its waistline.
Facings
A facing hides a raw edge and gives it a neat finish. There are three kinds:
| Facing | How It Is Made | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Shaped | A separate piece traced from the pattern edge | Necklines and sleeveless armholes |
| Extended | Part of the main piece, folded back on itself | Straight edges, like a button front |
| Bias | A strip cut on the bias, turned to the inside | Curves, sheer fabric, or when the fashion fabric is bulky |
The one you choose depends on the fabric and how stable the edge is.
Shaped Facings
A shaped (or fitted) facing is a separate piece traced straight from the pattern outline, so its shape and grainline match the piece it finishes.
The outer edge of the facing needs finishing too. As you draft, think about how that edge will be clean-finished or turned under.
Separate Pieces
Here is a front bodice with the neckline and armhole facings drawn on. Facings are generally 1 1/2" to 2" (4 to 5 cm) wide. In this example both are offset 1 1/2" (4 cm) from the edge.
Trim the outer edge of a facing slightly so it sits a little smaller than the garment and does not stretch out or roll to the outside. In this image both facings are dropped 1/16" (2 mm) at the shoulder line. The neckline facing is left as it is at center front, and the armhole facing is brought in 1/8" (3 mm) at the side seam. You can also taper the trim, from 1/16" at the shoulder or 1/8" at the side seam down to nothing at the other end of the edge.
All-in-One
When two facings sit very close together, you can combine them into one piece. In this image the neckline and armhole facings are merged. The facing is brought in 1/8" (3 mm) on both sides of the shoulder line, and 1/8" (3 mm) at the side seam.
For a more professional look, draft the back neckline facing slightly deeper than the front neckline drop. The back seams stay hidden when the garment hangs on a hanger.
On a deeply cut neckline or armhole, you can shape the facing a little smaller than the garment edge and ease the garment into it. That closes up any stretch and gives a closer fit.
Extended Facings
An extended facing is drafted onto the main piece. You extend the edge by the facing width and fold it back on itself, so the facing needs no separate seam. It only works on straight edges, such as a button front.
Button extensions are the common example. We cover them in the Fastener Extensions page.
An extended facing is sometimes called an "all-in-one" facing, because the facing is part of the main piece. The same name is also used for a combined neckline and armhole facing, as above. Check which one is meant.
Bias Facings
A bias facing is a strip cut on the true bias (45°), so it bends smoothly around curves. It is not the same as bias binding, which wraps around the raw edge and shows on both sides. A bias facing turns completely to the inside and stays hidden.
It is a good choice when your fashion fabric is scratchy or bulky, or when a wide facing would show through a sheer. You can cut it from lining fabric, or use double-fold bias tape.
To draft one, make a strip about four times the finished width of the facing, plus 1/4" to 3/8" (6 to 10 mm) for shaping. Fold it in half lengthwise and press it into the curve of the edge. Make the strip 2" (5 cm) longer than the edge, for finishing the ends.
Pattern Labels and Interfacing
Facings usually need interfacing to give the edge some body and stop the curves from stretching. You do not need to draft a separate interfacing piece. Put both cutting instructions on the facing itself.
Example label for a front neckline facing:
- Cut 1 on Fold – Fashion Fabric
- Cut 1 on Fold – Fusible Interfacing
Both callouts on one piece keep the pattern set tidy and remind you to cut the interfacing when you prep the garment.
Armhole facings seldom need interfacing. An armhole that is too crisp or bulky is uncomfortable to wear.