Fabric Practice Run
You do not need a computer, a pattern or any drafting for this one. You need two scraps of fabric, a ruler and about an hour. By the end you will have straightened a piece of cloth, felt the difference between the grains, measured stretch with real numbers, and written down results you can use the next time you choose a fabric.
I always preshrink, because you cannot get the feel of a fabric until it has been washed. This exercise comes from the same idea: handle the fabric before you trust it with a pattern.
What You Need
- A woven scrap, about 18 inches (45 cm) square. A plain cotton or linen is easiest to read. Avoid anything with a stretch label for now.
- A knit scrap, about 12 by 12 inches (30 cm). A tee shirt knit works. An old tee shirt works too if you cut from a flat area.
- A ruler or tape measure, pins, scissors, a pencil or chalk.
- A clothespin or binder clip, a few coins or washers for weight, and a place to hang a strip (a door handle works).
- A pen and the results table below.
Your Results Table
Copy this table onto a sheet of paper or into a notebook first. You will fill it in as you go.
| Woven | Knit | |
|---|---|---|
| Ends square after fold check (yes/no) | not used | |
| Lengthwise stretch % | ||
| Crosswise stretch % | ||
| Bias stretch % | not used | |
| Strip length at start (lengthwise / bias) | not used | |
| Strip length after 1 hour | not used | |
| Strip length next morning (optional) | not used | |
| Recovery: distance after release | not used | |
| Stretch group | not used |
Part 1: Square the Woven
- Find the selvage. It is the tighter, firmer edge, often with a slightly different weave.
- Near the cut end, clip a small snip into the selvage.
- Pick out one crosswise thread with a pin, and pull it gently. The fabric gathers along it.
- Cut along the line the thread leaves.
- Check: fold the fabric lengthwise, selvage to selvage. Do the cut ends line up and does the fold lie flat?
I pull a thread or tear, depending on the fabric. Here you pull a thread, so you can see exactly what your fabric does.
Write yes or no in the table. If the ends do not line up, try the fix from the Grain and Fabric Prep page: steam press and pull gently in the opposite direction of the slant. Then check again.
Part 2: Feel the Three Directions
On your squared woven, mark two pins or dots 4 inches (10 cm) apart in each of these directions:
- along the lengthwise grain
- along the crosswise grain
- along the true bias: fold a corner so the cut end meets the selvage, and the fold is your 45 degree line
For each pair, hold the fabric at the marks, pull gently until you feel resistance, and measure the new distance. Do not yank. You are trying to measure how it gives, not stretch it out for good.
Stretch percentage = (stretched - original) / original x 100
Write the three numbers in the table.
Part 3: Hang Test
This one needs patience.
- Cut two strips, each 2 inches by 20 inches (5 by 50 cm) from the woven: one along the lengthwise grain and one on the true bias.
- Hang each from one end with a clip. Tie the same weight to the bottom of each.
- Measure the length of each strip right away, then again after an hour. If you can, check them again the next morning.
Write the lengths in the table.
This is a test of how fabric changes under its own weight, which is the reason a bias-cut garment needs to hang before you hem it.
Part 4: Test the Knit
- Mark two points 4 inches (10 cm) apart across the width of the knit, and another pair along the length.
- Pull each pair gently as far as it will go without distorting and measure it.
- Calculate the percentage for each direction.
- Recovery: let go, wait a moment, and measure the distance again. Does it come back to 4 inches (10 cm)? A little over is common, a lot over means poor recovery.
- Compare to the groups on the Stretch and Knits page. Is it stable, moderate, stretchy or super stretch?
How to Check Your Results
Your numbers will not match anyone else's. They depend on the fabric. What should match are these patterns:
- The bias reading should be the biggest of the three woven readings. If it is not, check that your marks sit on a true 45 degree line.
- The bias strip should be longer than the lengthwise strip after hanging, and the gap should grow over time.
- The lengthwise strip should hardly change.
- The knit stretches far more than the woven in at least one direction. Most knits stretch more across than along.
- If your knit does not come back to its starting length, write "poor recovery". That is useful information, not a failed test.
If your results do not follow these patterns, that is worth investigating. Re-measure, check your marks, and try another scrap. Odd results often come from fabric with a finish or fiber you did not expect.