Sloper Back Draft 101-B1
Bodice Back Sample Garment (1/2 scale)
Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables - 36" bust
Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Companion Patterns: 101-F1 Bodice Front, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve
Measurements Used
- Across Back
- Bust Back
- Center Length Back
- Full Length Back
- Neck Back
- Shoulder Across Back
- Shoulder Length
- Shoulder Slope Back
- Side Length
- Waist Back
If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit the PatternMaker Pro Measurement Definitions page.
New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.
Companion Patterns​
This pattern goes along with the Bodice Front 101-F1 draft. I recommend that you open that draft and add this back pattern to the same file. This allows you to make pattern modifications later that require both the front and back patterns together. Also, this will allow you to true the armhole curves.
Dart Intake​
Standard waist dart intake is 1.5" or 38 mm. If the model is petite or junior, the recommended value is 1" or 25 mm.
Layers > Add Layer1Back Pattern
Parent: PMP
Name: Back Pattern
Save
Layers > Add Layer2Back Draft
Parent: Back Pattern
Name: Back Draft
Save & Switch
Points > Add Free Point3Start
This drafts to the right, so place this point to the right of the front pattern.
Points > Add Point from Point4Waist Ctr
Base: 3Start
Y: {Full Length Back}
Points > Add Point from Point5Shoulder RP
Base:3Start
X: {Shoulder Across Back} / 2
Lines > Add Reference Line6Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 5Shoulder RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm goes down
Points > Add Point from Point7Center Neck
Base: 4Waist Ctr
Y: - {Center Length Back}
Lines > Add Reference Line8Neck Ref Line
Start: 7Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm goes right
Points > Add Point from Point9Side Waist RP
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: ({Bust Back} / 2) + 0.75" or 19 mm
Points > Add Point from Point10Side Neck
Base: 3Start
X: ({Neck Back} / 2) + 0.125" or 3 mm
Points > Point on Line at Distance11Shoulder Tip RP
From: 4Waist Ctr
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Back} + 0.125" or 3 mm
Line: 6Shoulder Ref Line
Points > Add Point on Vector12Shoulder Tip
Start: 10Side Neck
Vector: 11Shoulder Tip RP
Distance: {Shoulder Length} + 0.5" or 13 mm
Points > Add Point Perpendicular13Neckline RP
Origin: 10Side Neck
Vector: 11Shoulder Tip RP
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
Save & Line
Points > Add Point from Point14Dart Leg RP
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: {Waist Back} / 4
Points > Add Point from Point15Side Waist RP 2
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: ({Waist Back} / 2) + 1.5" or 38 mm + 0.25" or 6 mm
1.5" (38 mm) is dart intake and 0.25" (6 mm) addition is ease. See page 2 regarding dart intake values.
Points > Add Point from Point16Dart Leg RP
Base: 14Dart Leg RP
X: 1.5" or 38 mm
Value must match step 15 dart intake.
Points > Add Point from Point17Side Waist
Base: 15Side Waist RP 2
Y: 0.1875 or 5 mm
Lines > Add Reference Line18Side Ref Line
Start: 9Side Waist RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (up)
Points > Point on Line at Distance19Armpit
From: 17Side Waist
Distance: {Side Length}
Line: 18Side Ref Line
Points > Add Point from 2 Points20Waist Apex
14Dart Leg RP,16Dart Leg RP
X: Center
Y: Center
Adjust Y: - ({Side Length} - 1" or 25 mm)
Points > Add Point on Vector21Waist Dart Leg 1
Start: 14Dart Leg RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point drops below 14Dart Leg RP
Points > Add Point on Vector22Waist Dart Leg 2
Start: 16Dart Leg RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point drops below 16Dart Leg RP
Points > Add Point from 2 Points23Center RP
10Side Neck,12Shoulder Tip
X: Center
Y: Center
Points > Add Point on Vector24Shoulder Apex
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
Points > Add Point on Vector25Dart RP
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 10Side Neck
Distance: 0.25" or 6.5 mm
Points > Add Point on Vector26Dart RP
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 12Shoulder Tip
Distance: 0.25" or 6.5 mm
Points > Add Point on Vector27Shldr Dart Leg 1
Start: 25Dart RP
Vector: 24Shoulder Apex
Distance: 0.125 or 3 mm
Make sure point goes above 25Dart RP
Points > Add Point on Vector28Shldr Dart Leg 2
Start: 26Dart RP
Vector: 24Shoulder Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point goes above 26Dart RP
Points > Add Point from Point29Across Ht
Base: 7Center Neck
Y: [Measure 7Center Neck to 4Waist Ctr] / 4
Points > Add Point from Point30Across Pt
Base: 29Across Ht
X: ({Across Back} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm
Lines > Add Reference Line31Armhole Guide
Start: 30Across Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (down)
Layers > Add Layer32Outline
Parent: Back Pattern
Name: Outline
Save & Switch
Curves > Add Curve33Armhole
12Shoulder Tip to 19Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Curve comes over to 30Across Pt and follows the 31Armhole Guide.
Points > Add Point at Intersection34Intersect
13Neckline RP line, 8Neck Ref Line
Save
Points > Bisect Points35Curve Guide
Bisect: 7Center Neck, 10Side Neck
Extend: 34Intersect
Distance: 0.375" or 10 mm
Curves > Add Curve36Neckline
7Center Neck, 10Side Neck
Curve Points: 1
Curve down to 35Curve Guide without passing under 8Neck Ref Line
Lines > Add Line37Shoulder Line
10Side Neck, 27Shldr Dart Leg 1
Lines > Add Line38Shoulder Line
28Shldr Dart Leg 2, 12Shoulder Tip
Lines > Add Line39Side Line
19Armpit, 17Side Waist
Curves > Add Curve40Waist Curve
17Side Waist, 22Waist Dart Leg 2
Curve Points: 1
Curve very slightly
Curves > Add Curve41Waist Curve
21Waist Dart Leg 1, 4Waist Ctr
Curve Points: 1
Curve very slightly.
Lines > Add Line42Center Back
4Waist Ctr, 7Center Neck
Darts > Register Dart43Waist Dart
Apex: 20Waist Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 21Waist Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 22Waist Dart Leg 2
Direction: 4Waist Ctr
Name: WaistDart
Darts > Register Dart44Shoulder Dart
Apex: 24Shoulder Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 27Shldr Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 28Shldr Dart Leg 2
Direction: 10Side Neck
Name: ShoulderDart
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance45Center Back SA
If you are going to cut the back on the fold:
Select: 42Center Back
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)
Finish > Curve Truing46True Neckline
First: 36Neckline
Seam: 42Center Back
Second: 36Neckline
Seam: 42Center Back
Move the neckline green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.
Finish > Curve Truing47True Armhole
First: 33Armhole
Seam: 39Side Line
Second: Front Pattern 24 Armhole
Seam: Front Pattern 31 Side Line
Move the curve points on either armhole to create a smooth transition. Update to view changes.
Layers > Layer Visibility48Hide Draft
Hide Back Draft Layer
Finish > Add Text at Point49Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions. (Ex: Cut 1 on Fold, Cut 1 / Flip Cut 1, etc).
Finish > Add Measurement Text50Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 33Armhole and 36Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.
Finish > Add Cut on Fold51Center Back Fold
If you are going to cut the back on the fold:
Select: 42Center Back
Make sure the marking is inside the pattern, Other Side if not.
Finish > Add Grainline52Grainline
If you aren't going to cut the back on the fold:
Vertical
Click near 42Center Back
Length: {Center Length Back} * .75
Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern53Seam Allowance
Select: 36Neckline, 37Shoulder Line, 44Shoulder Dart extension lines, 38Shoulder Line, 33Armhole, 39Side Line, 40Waist Curve, 43Waist Dart extension lines, 41Waist Curve, 42Center Back
If the blue seam allowance draws to the inside of the pattern, select Other Side.
Finish > Add Notch54Armhole Notch
Select: 33Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 19Armpit
Type: Double
Should be outside 33Armhole
Finish > Hide Points55Hide Points
Hide remaining points.
56
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
