Sloper Front Draft 101-F1

Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables - 36" bust with 1.25" (32 mm) Cup Size Adjustment used

Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Companion Patterns: 101-B1 Bodice Back, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve

warning

The accumulated bust ease using the Body Type X Sizing Calculator #1 (Armstrong) with the instructions below results in much more ease than I believe is appropriate for a sloper pattern. For example, I chose a bust measurement of 36" (914 mm) which returns a Bust Front of 20" (506 mm) and Bust Back of 17.25" (436 mm), which is 1.25" (32 mm) greater than the bust. Then the front draft adds 0.25" (6 mm) and the back draft adds 0.75" (19 mm). That adds 3.25" (82 mm) of total ease to the sloper at the bust, which is a lot for a basic block.

Measurements Used

Across Front
Bust
Bust Apex Front
Bust Depth
Bust Front
Center Length Front
Full Length Front
Shoulder Across Front
Shoulder Length
Shoulder Slope Front
Side Length
Side Neck to Waist
Underbust Back
Underbust Front
Waist Front

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit the PatternMaker Pro Measurement Definitions page.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Cup Size Adjustment

These instructions contain an adjustment that is based on the cup size of the model. To determine your adjustment, subtract the full Underbust measurement from the full Bust measurement. Round the result to the nearest inch or 25 mm.

Difference: 1" (25 mm) | Adjustment: 0.875" (22 mm)
Difference: 2" (50 mm) | Adjustment: 1.25" (32 mm)
Difference: 3" (75 mm) | Adjustment: 1.5" (38 mm)
Difference: 4" (100 mm) | Adjustment: 1.75" (44 mm)
Difference > 4" (100 mm) | Adjustment: 1.75" (44 mm) + 0.25" (6 mm) for every additional 1" (25 mm)

The Body Type X Calculator #1 (Armstrong) doesn't have underbust measurements. The difference 2" was used in this example.

Finish > Set Seam Allowance Defaults

1Seam Allowance

Determine your seam allowances for the draft and set the defaults.

Points > Add Free Point

2Start

This drafts to the left, so place this point to the right.

Points > Add Point from Point

3Center Waist

Base: ²Start

Y: {Full Length Front} + 0.125" or 3 mm

Points > Add Point from Point

4Shoulder RP

Base: ²Start

X: - (({Shoulder Across Front} / 2) - 0.125" or 3 mm)

Points > Add Point from Point

5Center Neck

Base: ³Center Waist

Y: - {Center Length Front}

Lines > Add Reference Line

6Neck Ref Line

Start: ⁵Center Neck

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (goes left)

Points > Add Point from Point

7Side Waist RP

Base: ³Center Waist

X: - (({Bust Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6 mm)

Lines > Add Reference Line

8Shoulder Ref Line

Start: ⁴Shoulder RP

Direction: Vertical

Length: One direction (goes down)

Points > Point on Line at Distance

9Shoulder Tip

From: ³Center Waist

Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front} + 0.125 or 3 mm

Line: ⁸Shoulder Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

10Across Ref Line

²Start to ⁴Shoulder RP

Points > Point on Line at Distance

11Side Neck

From: ⁹Shoulder Tip

Distance: {Shoulder Length}

Line: ¹⁰Across Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

12Slope Ref Line

⁹Shoulder Tip to ³Center Waist

Points > Point on Line at Distance

13Bust Depth

From: ⁹Shoulder Tip

Distance: {Bust Depth}

Line: ¹²Slope Ref Line

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

14Bust Ht

³Center Waist, ¹³Bust Depth

X: ³Center Waist

Y: ¹³Bust Depth

Points > Add Point from Point

15Bust Apex

Base: ¹⁴Bust Ht

X: - (({Bust Apex Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm)

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

16Chest

Select: ⁵Center Neck, ¹⁴Bust Ht

X: Center

Y: Center

Points > Add Point from Point

17Across Front

Base: ¹⁶Chest

X: - (({Across Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6 mm)

Points > Add Point from Point

18Dart Leg 1

Base: ³Center Waist

X: - ({Waist Front} / 4)

Y: 0.1875 or 5 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

19Side Ref Line

Start: ⁷Side Waist RP

Direction: Vertical

Length: Set Distance {Full Length Front}

Line goes up

Points > Point on Line at Distance

20Side Waist

From: ¹¹Side Neck

Distance: {Side Neck to Waist} + 0.125" or 3 mm

Line: ¹⁹Side Ref Line

Points > Add Point from Point

21Armpit

Base: ²⁰Side Waist

Y: - {Side Length}

Points > Rotate Points

22Adjust Side Waist

Locate your Cup Size Adjustment according the instructions on page 2.

Select: ²⁰Side Waist

Pivot: ²¹Armpit

Distance: Cup Size Adjustment

(1.25" or 32 mm used here)

Points > Add Point on Vector

23Dart Leg 2

Start: ²⁰Side Waist

Vector: ¹⁸Dart Leg 1

Distance:({Waist Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm - [¹⁸Dart Leg 1 to ³Center Waist]

Lines > Add Reference Line

24Armhole Ref Line

Start: ²¹Armpit

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (to right)

Curves > Add Curve

25Armhole

²¹Armpit to ⁹Shoulder Tip

Curve Points: 2

Do not let the curve drop below ²⁴Armhole Ref Line. The curve comes in toward ¹⁷Across Front.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

26Neckline Curve Ref

Origin: ¹¹Side Neck

Vector: ⁹Shoulder Tip

Distance: 5" or 127 mm

Make sure the point goes down.

Save & Line

Curves > Add Curve

27Neckline

⁵Center Neck to ¹¹Side Neck

Curve Points: 1

Don't drop the curve below ⁶Neck Ref Line or left of ²⁶Neckline Curve Ref

Darts > Register Dart

28BustDart

Apex: ¹⁵Bust Apex

Dart Leg Stay: ¹⁸Dart Leg 1

Dart Leg Fold: ²³Dart Leg 2

Direction: ³Center Waist

Name: BustDart

Lines > Add Line

29Center Front

⁵Center Neck to ³Center Waist

Lines > Add Line

30Waist Line

³Center Waist to ¹⁸Dart Leg 1

Lines > Add Line

31Waist Line

²³Dart Leg 2 to ²⁰Side Waist

Lines > Add Line

32Side Line

²⁰Side Waist to ²¹Armpit

Lines > Add Line

33Shoulder Line

⁹Shoulder Tip to ¹¹Side Neck

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

34Center Front SA

If you are going to cut the front on the fold:

Select: ²⁹Center Front

Value: Custom Value

0 (zero)

Finish > Curve Truing

35True Neckline

First: ²⁷Neckline

Seam: ²⁹Center Front

Second: ²⁷Neckline

Seam: ²⁹Center Front

Move the neckline green curve points to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

Layers > Move Items to Layer

36Outline

³³Shoulder Line,²⁷Neckline,²⁹Center Front,³⁰Waist Line,²⁸BustDart- leg stay, leg move, ext line 1, ext line 2, ³¹Waist Line,³²Side Line²⁵Armhole

Move to: New Layer

Name: Outline

Parent: PMP

Save & Switch

Layers > Layer Visibility

37Hide Layer

Hide Draft Layer

Finish > Add Text at Point

38Label Pattern

Select a location for the pattern label.

Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.

Finish > Add Measurement Text

39Measurement Notes

You may choose to add the ²⁵Armhole and ²⁷Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.

Finish > Add Grainline

40Grainline

If you are not going to cut the front on the fold:

Vertical

Click near ²⁹Center Front

Length: {Center Length Front} * .75

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

41Seam Allowance

Select: ³³Shoulder Line, ²⁷Neckline, ²⁹Center Front,³⁰Waist Line,²⁸BustDart - Ext line 1, Ext line 2, ³¹Waist Line, ³²Side Line, ²⁵Armhole

If the blue seam allowance draws to the inside of the pattern, select Other Side.

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

42Center Front Fold

If you are going to cut the front on the fold:

Select: ²⁹Center Front

Make sure the marking is inside the pattern, Other Side if not.

Finish > Add Notch

43Armhole Notch

Select: ²⁵Armhole

Distance: 3" or 76 mm

From: ²¹Armpit

Type: Single

Should be outside ²⁴Armhole Ref Line

Finish > Hide Points

44Hide Points

Hide all points that remain.

45Export PDF

File > Export PDF

Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.

Measurements Used

Cup Size Adjustment​

Cup Size Adjustment