Sloper Sleeve Draft 101-S1

Bodice Sleeve Sample Garment (1/2 scale)

Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables - 36" bust

Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Companion Patterns: 101-B1 Bodice Back, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve

Measurements Used

• Bicep
• Cap Height
• Overarm Length

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit the PatternMaker Pro Measurement Definitions page.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Companion Patterns

This pattern goes along with the Basic Block Front 101-F1 and Basic Block Back 101-B1 drafts. I recommend that you open that draft and add this sleeve pattern to the same file. This allows you to make pattern modifications later that require all three patterns. Also, you'll need the front and back armhole measurements when drafting the sleeve.

Layers > Add Layer

1Sleeve Pattern

Parent: PMP

Name: Sleeve Pattern

Save

Layers > Add Layer

2Sleeve Draft

Parent: Sleeve Pattern

Name: Sleeve Draft

Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

3Cap

This sleeve drafts from the center out. Place the first point to the right of the back pattern.

Points > Add Point from Point

4Wrist Ctr

Base: ³Cap

Y: {Overarm Length}

Points > Add Point from Point

5Cap Height

Base: ³Cap

Y: {Cap Height}

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

6Elbow RP

⁵Cap Height, ⁴Wrist Ctr

X: Center

Y: Center

Points > Add Point from Point

7Elbow Ctr

Base: ⁶Elbow RP

Y: - 0.75" or 19 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

8Bicep Ref Line

Start: ⁵Cap Height

Direction: Horizontal

Length: One direction (left)

Utilities > Measure Line/Curve

9Armhole Measurement

Select: ²⁵Front Pattern Armhole &

³³Back Pattern Armhole

Write down total armhole.

Points > Point on Line at Distance

10Armhole Length

From: ³Cap

Distance: (⁹Armhole Measurement / 2 )+ 0.25" or 6 mm

Line: ⁸Bicep Ref Line

Points > Add Point from Point

11 Bicep Ref Pt

Base: ⁵Cap Height

X: - ({Bicep} / 2)

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

12Bicep Back

¹⁰Armhole Length, ¹¹ Bicep Ref Pt

X: Center

Y: Center

Lines > Add Line

13Back Cap Line

³Cap to ¹²Bicep Back

Points > Add Multiple Points

14Back Cap Pts

Line: ¹³Back Cap Line

Number of Points: 3

Save

Points > Add Point from Point

15Bicep Front

Base: ⁵Cap Height

X: [Measure ⁵Cap Height to ¹²Bicep Back

Lines > Add Line

16Front Cap Line

³Cap to ¹⁵Bicep Front

Points > Add Multiple Points

17Front Cap Pts

Line: ¹⁶Front Cap Line

Number of Points: 3

Save

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

18Wrist Back Ref

¹²Bicep Back, ⁴Wrist Ctr

X: ¹²Bicep Back

Adjust X: 2" or 51 mm

Y: ⁴Wrist Ctr

Points > Add Point from Point

19Wrist Front Ref

Base: ⁴Wrist Ctr

X: [Measure ⁴Wrist Ctr to ¹⁸Wrist Back Ref]

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

20Back Cap 1

Origin: ¹⁴Back Cap Pts closest to ¹²Bicep Back

Vector: ¹²Bicep Back

Distance: 0.375" or 10 mm

Line points inward.

Save & Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

21Back Cap 2

Origin: ¹⁴Back Cap Pts center

Vector: ¹²Bicep Back

Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm

Line points outward.

Save & Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

22Back Cap 3

Origin: ¹⁴Back Cap Pts closest to ³Cap

Vector: ¹²Bicep Back

Distance: 0.625" or 16 mm

Line points outward.

Save & Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

23Front Cap 1

Origin: ¹⁷Front Cap Pts closest to ¹⁵Bicep Front

Vector: ¹⁵Bicep Front

Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm

Line points inward.

Save & Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

24Front Cap 2

Origin: ¹⁷Front Cap Pts center

Vector: ¹⁵Bicep Front

Distance: 0.1875" or 5 mm

Line points outward.

Save & Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

25Front Cap 3

Origin: ¹⁷Front Cap Pts closest to ³Cap

Vector: ¹⁵Bicep Front

Distance: 0.75" or 19 mm

Line points outward.

Save & Line

Lines > Add Line

26Back Ref Line

¹²Bicep Back to ¹⁸Wrist Back Ref

Lines > Add Reference Line

27Elbow Ref Line

Start: ⁷Elbow Ctr

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Both Directions

Points > Add Point at Intersection

28Intersect

²⁶Back Ref Line, ²⁷Elbow Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point from Point

29Elbow Dart 1

Base: ²⁸Intersect

X: - 0.25" or 6 mm

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

30Dart Apex

²⁹Elbow Dart 1, ⁷Elbow Ctr

X: Center

Y: Center

Points > Add Point on Vector

31Elbow Dart 2

Start: ²⁹Elbow Dart 1

Vector: ¹⁸Wrist Back Ref

Distance: 1" or 25 mm

Lines > Add Line

32Front Ref Line

¹⁵Bicep Front to ¹⁹Wrist Front Ref

Points > Add Point at Intersection

33Front Elbow

²⁷Elbow Ref Line, ³²Front Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point from Point

34Back Wrist Adj

Base: ¹⁸Wrist Back Ref

X: 0.75" or 19 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

35Wrist Back

Start: ³¹Elbow Dart 2

Vector: ³⁴Back Wrist Adj

Distance: [Measure ³³Front Elbow to ¹⁹Wrist Front Ref

Points > Add Point on Vector

36Wrist Front

Start: ³⁵Wrist Back

Vector: ¹⁹Wrist Front Ref

Distance: [Measure ¹⁸Wrist Back Ref to ¹⁹Wrist Front Ref

Point goes to right.

Layers > Add Layer

37Outline

Parent: Sleeve Pattern

Name: Outline

Save & Switch

Lines > Add Line

38Back Line

¹²Bicep Back to ²⁹Elbow Dart 1

Lines > Add Line

39Back Line

³¹Elbow Dart 2 to ³⁵Wrist Back

Lines > Add Line

40Wrist Line

³⁵Wrist Back to ³⁶Wrist Front

Curves > Add Curve

41Front Curve

¹⁵Bicep Front to ³⁶Wrist Front

Curve Points: 1

Curve very slightly to ³³Front Elbow

Curves > Add Curve

42Back Cap Curve

¹²Bicep Back to ³Cap

Curve Points: 3

Move the curve points so the curve runs through ²⁰Back Cap 1, ²¹Back Cap 2 and ²²Back Cap 3

Curves > Add Curve

43Front Cap Curve

¹⁵Bicep Front to ³Cap

Curve Points: 3

Move the curve points so the curve runs through ²³Front Cap 1, ²⁴Front Cap 2 and ²⁵Front Cap 3

Finish > Add Notch

44Back Notch

Select: ⁴²Back Cap Curve

Distance: 3" or 76 mm

From: ¹²Bicep Back

Type: Double

Notch outside of ⁴²Back Cap Curve

Finish > Add Notch

45Front Notch

Select: ⁴³Front Cap Curve

Distance: 3" or 76 mm

From: ¹⁵Bicep Front

Type: Single

Notch outside of ⁴³Front Cap Curve

Darts > Register Dart

46Elbow Dart

Apex: ³⁰Dart Apex

Dart Leg Stay: ³¹Elbow Dart 2

Dart Leg Fold: ²⁹Elbow Dart 1

Direction: ³⁵Wrist Back

Name: ElbowDart

Process > Add Hem

47Hem

If you choose to add a hem:

Select: ⁴⁰Wrist Line

Sides: ³⁹Back Line, ⁴¹Front Curve

Hem Depth: 0.75" 19 mm

Raw Edge Turn: 0.25" 6 mm

Layers > Layer Visibility

48Hide Draft

Hide Draft Layer

Finish > Add Text at Point

49Label Pattern

Select a location for the pattern label.

Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions. (Ex: Cut 1 on Fold, Cut 1 / Flip Cut 1, etc).

Finish > Add Grainline

50Grainline

Vertical

Select: Just under ⁵Cap Height

Length: {Overarm Length} * .75

Finish > Mark Sleeve Ease

51Sleeve Ease

Front Armhole: ²⁵Front Pattern Armhole

Back Armhole: ³³Back Pattern Armhole

Front Sleeve: ⁴³Front Cap Curve

Back Sleeve: ⁴²Back Cap Curve

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

52Seam Allowance

Select: ⁴²Back Cap Curve, ⁴³Front Cap Curve, ⁴¹Front Curve, ⁴⁰Wrist Line*, ³⁹Back Line, ⁴⁶Elbow Dart extension lines, ³⁸Back Line

*If you chose a hem, select the new wrist line and short side lines instead of ⁴⁰Wrist Line.

If the blue seam allowance draws inside the pattern, select Other Side.

Layers > Layer Visibility

53Hide Layers

Hide all layers except your final pattern.

Finish > Hide Points

54Hide Points

Hide all points that remain.

File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.