Sloper Front Draft 103-F1

Category: Sloper

Sizing: Standard or Custom

Adaptation: Modern Pattern Design and Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design

Companion Patterns: 103-B1 Bodice Back, 103-S1 Bodice Sleeve

Measurements Used

Across Front
Armhole Drop
Bust Apex Front
Bust Back
Bust Ease
Bust Front
Bust Height Front
Center Length Front
Full Length Front
Neck Front
Shoulder Across Front
Shoulder Height Front
Shoulder Length
Shoulder Slope Front
Side Length
Waist Ease
Waist Front

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit the PatternMaker Pro Measurement Definitions page.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Ease

You'll note that there are measurements for Bust Ease and Waist Ease. The instructions account for these as total circumference ease (divided by 4 for the quarter pattern).

Finish > Set Seam Allowance Defaults

1Seam Allowance

Determine your seam allowances for the draft and set the defaults.

Layers > Layer Name

2Front Draft

Select: Draft Layer

Name: Front Draft

Points > Add Free Point

3Center Neck

This pattern drafts from the right towards the left. Place this point to the right.

Points > Add Point from Point

4Center Waist

Base: ³Center Neck

Y: {Center Length Front}

Points > Add Point from Point

5Full Length Ref Pt

Base: ⁴Center Waist

Y: - {Full Length Front}

Points > Add Point from Point

6Across Ref Pt

Base: ⁵Full Length Ref Pt

X: - ({Across Front} / 2)

Points > Add Point from Point

7Shoulder Ref Pt

Base: ⁵Full Length Ref Pt

X: - ({Shoulder Across Front} / 2)

Points > Add Point from Point

8Bust Ref Pt

Base: ⁵Full Length Ref Pt

X: - (({Bust Front} / 2) + ({Bust Ease} / 4))

Lines > Add Reference Line

9Across Ref Line

Start: ⁶Across Ref Pt

Direction: Vertical

Length: Set distance {Full Length Front}

Lines > Add Reference Line

10Shoulder Ref Line

Start: ⁷Shoulder Ref Pt

Direction: Vertical

Length: Set Distance {Full Length Front}

Lines > Add Reference Line

11Bust Ref Line

Start: ⁸Bust Ref Pt

Direction: Vertical

Length: One Direction (down)

Points > Point on Line at Distance

12Shoulder

From: ⁴Center Waist

Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front}

Line: ¹⁰Shoulder Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

13Shldr Length Ref Line

From: ⁵Full Length Ref Pt to ⁷Shoulder Ref Pt

Points > Point on Line at Distance

14Side Neck

From: ¹²Shoulder

Distance: {Shoulder Length}

Line: ¹³Shldr Length Ref Line

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

15Shldr Nk Perp

Origin: ¹⁴Side Neck

Vector: ¹²Shoulder

Distance: -({Neck Front} / 2)

Save & Line

Lines > Add Reference Line

16Ctr Neck Ref Line

Start: ³Center Neck

Direction: Horizontal

Length: One direction (left)

Points > Point on Line at Distance

17Mid-Arm

From: ¹²Shoulder

Distance: 4" or 100 mm

Line: ⁹Across Ref Line

Points > Point on Line at Distance

18Side Waist

From: ¹⁷Mid-Arm

Distance: {Shoulder Height Front} - 4" or 100 mm

Line: ¹¹Bust Ref Line

Points > Add Point from Point

19Armpit

Base: ¹⁸Side Waist

Y: - ({Side Length} - {Armhole Drop})

Lines > Add Reference Line

20Armpit CP Ref Line

Start: ¹⁹Armpit

Direction: Horizontal

Length: One direction (right)

Points > Add Point from Point

21Bust Ht

Base: ⁴Center Waist

Y: - {Bust Height Front}

Points > Add Point from Point

22Bust Apex

Base: ²¹Bust Ht

X: - ({Bust Apex Front} / 2)

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

23Dart P1

²²Bust Apex, ⁴Center Waist

X: ²²Bust Apex

Adjust X: 0.5" or 13 mm

Y: ⁴Center Waist

Points > Add Point on Vector

24Dart P2

Start: ²³Dart P1

Vector: ¹⁸Side Waist

Distance: [Measure ⁴Center Waist to ²³Dart P1 to ¹⁸Side Waist] - (({Waist Front} / 2) + ({Waist Ease} / 4))

Measuring the drafted waist less the actual waist to determine the dart width.

Points > Add Point at Intersection

25Neck Int

¹⁵Shldr Nk Perp Line, ¹⁶Ctr Neck Ref Line

Save

Points > Bisect Points

26Bisect Neck

Select: ¹⁴Side Neck, ³Center Neck

Extend: ²⁵Neck Int

Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm

Points > Add Point at Intersection

27Armhole Int

¹⁰Shoulder Ref Line, ²⁰Armpit CP Ref Line

Save

Points > Bisect Points

28Bisect Armhole

Select: ¹⁹Armpit, ⁷Shoulder Ref Pt

Extend: ²⁷Armhole Int

Distance: 0.875" or 22 mm

Layers > Add Layer

29Outline Front

Parent: PMP

Name: Outline Front

Save & Switch

Darts > Register Dart

30Bust Dart

Apex: ²²Bust Apex

Dart Leg Stay: ²³Dart P1

Dart Leg Fold: ²⁴Dart P2

Direction: ⁴Center Waist

Name: BustDart

Curves > Add Curve

31Armhole

From: ¹²Shoulder to ¹⁹Armpit

Curve Points: 2

Drag points so the armhole runs through the ¹⁷Mid-Arm and the ²⁸Bisect Armhole. Don't drop below the ²⁰Armpit CP Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

32Shoulder Line

From: ¹²Shoulder to ¹⁴Side Neck

Curves > Add Curve

33Neckline

From: ¹⁴Side Neck to ³Center Neck

Curve Points: 1

Drag point down so the curve runs close to the ²⁶Bisect Neck, but don't drop below the ¹⁶Ctr Neck Ref Line or left of the ¹⁵Shldr Nk Perp line.

Lines > Add Line

34Center Front

From: ³Center Neck to ⁴Center Waist

Lines > Add Line

35Waist Line

From: ⁴Center Waist to ²³Dart P1

Lines > Add Line

36Waist Line

From: ²⁴Dart P2 to ¹⁸Side Waist

Lines > Add Line

37Side Line

From: ¹⁸Side Waist to ¹⁹Armpit

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

38Center Front SA

*If you are going to cut the front on the fold:

Select: ³⁴Center Front

Value: Custom Value

0 (zero)

Finish > Curve Truing

39True Neckline

First: ³³Neckline

Seam: ³⁴Center Front

Second: ³³Neckline

Seam: ³⁴Center Front

Move the green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

Finish > Add Text at Point

40Label Pattern

Select a location for the pattern label.

Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.

Layers > Layer Visibility

41Hide Drafting

Hide Draft layer.

Finish > Add Measurement Text

42Measurement Notes

You may choose to add the ³¹Armhole and ³³Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.

Finish > Add Grainline

43Grainline

*If you are not going to cut the front on the fold:

Vertical

Click near ³⁴Center Front to place the top of the line.

Length: {Center Length Front} * 0.75

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

44Center Front Fold

If you are going to cut the front on the fold:

Select: ³⁴Center Front

Other Side if outside pattern.

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

45Seam Allowance

Select: ³²Shoulder Line, ³³Neckline, ³⁴Center Front, ³⁵Waist Line, ³⁰Bust Dart Ext Line 1, ³⁰Bust Dart Ext Line 2, ³⁶Waist Line, ³⁷Side Line, ³¹Armhole

Other Side if inside pattern.