Sloper Sleeve Draft 103-S1

Bodice Sleeve Sample Garment (1/2 scale)

Category: Sloper

Sizing: Standard or Custom

Adaptation: Modern Pattern Design and Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design

Companion Patterns: 103-B1 Bodice Back, 103-S1 Bodice Sleeve

Measurements Used

• Bicep
• Bicep Ease
• Elbow
• Elbow Ease
• Elbow to Wrist
• Overarm Length
• Underarm Length
• Wrist
• Wrist Ease

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit the PatternMaker Pro Measurement Definitions page.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Companion Patterns

This sleeve pairs directly with Bodice Front 103-F1 and Bodice Back 103-B1. For the best workflow, open your existing bodice draft and add this sleeve to the same file. Keeping the pieces together makes future pattern alterations and fit checks far simpler.

Layers > Add Layer

1Sleeve Draft

Parent: PMP

Name: Sleeve Draft

Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

2Cap Ctr

This pattern drafts from the center out. Place this point to the right of the back bodice pattern.

Points > Add Point from Point

3Wrist Ctr

Base: ²Cap Ctr

Y: {Overarm Length}

Utilities > Measure Line/Curve

4Armhole Measurement

Select: ³¹Armhole Front Bodice + ³⁰Armhole Back Bodice

Write down total armhole.

Points > Add Point from Point

5Bicep Ctr

Base: ²Cap Ctr

Y: ⁴Armhole Measurement / 3

Points > Add Point from Point

6Bicep Bk

Base: ⁵Bicep Ctr

X: ({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

7Bicep Fr

Base: ⁵Bicep Ctr

X: - ({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

8Elbow Ctr

Base: ³Wrist Ctr

Y: - {Elbow to Wrist}

Points > Add Point from Point

9Elbow Bk

Base: ⁸Elbow Ctr

X: ({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

10Elbow Fr

Base: ⁸Elbow Ctr

X: - ({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2

Lines > Add Reference Line

11Fr Cap Ref Line

Start: ¹⁰Elbow Fr

Direction: On Vector

Vector: ⁷Bicep Fr

Length: One direction (up)

Lines > Add Reference Line

12Bk Cap Ref Line

Start: ⁹Elbow Bk

Direction: On Vector

Vector: ⁶Bicep Bk

Length: One direction (up)

Points > Add Point from Point

13Wrist Ref 1

Base: ³Wrist Ctr

X: 0.5" or 13 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

14Wrist Ref Line

Start: ¹³Wrist Ref 1

Direction: Vertical

Length: Set distance 4" or 100 mm (down)

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

15Dart Apex

⁸Elbow Ctr , ⁹Elbow Bk

X: Center

Y: Center

Points > Add Point from Point

16Wrist Ref 2

Base: ¹³Wrist Ref 1

X: - ({Wrist} + {Wrist Ease}) / 2

Shapes > Add 2 Point Circle

17Wrist Ref Circle

¹⁵Dart Apex, ¹⁶Wrist Ref 2

Points > Add Point at Intersection

18Wrist Ref 3

¹⁷Wrist Ref Circle, ¹⁴Wrist Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

19Wrist Ref 4

¹⁶Wrist Ref 2, ¹⁸Wrist Ref 3

X: Center

Y: Center

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

20Wrist Ref 5

¹⁶Wrist Ref 2, ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4

X: ¹⁶Wrist Ref 2

Y: ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4

Points > Add Point from Point

21Wrist Fr

Base: ²⁰Wrist Ref 5

X: - [Measure ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4 to ²⁰Wrist Ref 5]

Points > Add Point on Vector

22Wrist Bk

Start: ¹⁸Wrist Ref 3

Vector: ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4

Distance: [Measure ¹⁸Wrist Ref 3 to ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4]

Other Side: Point right of ¹⁸Wrist Ref 3.

Points > Add Point on Vector

23Dart Pt Ref

Start: ⁹Elbow Bk

Vector: ²²Wrist Bk

Distance: [Measure ⁹Elbow Bk to ²²Wrist Bk] - [Measure ¹⁰Elbow Fr to ²¹Wrist Fr]

Point draws down from ⁹Elbow Bk.

Lines > Add Line

24Elbow Fr Ref Line

From: ⁷Bicep Fr to ²¹Wrist Fr

Lines > Add Reference Line

25Elbow Ref Line

Start: ¹⁰Elbow Fr

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Both directions

Points > Add Point at Intersection

26Elbow Offset

²⁴Elbow Fr Ref Line, ²⁵Elbow Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point from Point

27Dart P1

Base: ⁹Elbow Bk

X: [Measure ¹⁰Elbow Fr to ²⁶Elbow Offset]

If ²⁶Elbow Offset is left of ¹⁰Elbow Fr, then this point should be left of ⁹Elbow Bk. Add minus ( - ), negative value.

If ²⁶Elbow Offset is right of ¹⁰Elbow Fr, then this point should be right of ⁹Elbow Bk. Positive value.

Points > Add Point on Vector

28Dart P2

Start: ¹⁵Dart Apex

Vector: ²³Dart Pt Ref

Distance: [Measure ¹⁵Dart Apex to ²⁷Dart P1

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

29Cap Ref

²Cap Ctr, ⁵Bicep Ctr

X: Center

Y: Center

Lines > Add Reference Line

30Cap Ref Line

Start: ²⁹Cap Ref

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Both directions

Points > Add Point from Point

31Fr CP1

Base: ⁷Bicep Fr

X: - [Measure ⁵Bicep Ctr to ⁷Bicep Fr] / 4

Point is right of ⁷Bicep Fr

Points > Add Point from Point

32Bk CP1

Base: ⁶Bicep Bk

X: - [Measure ⁵Bicep Ctr to ⁶Bicep Bk] / 6

Point is left of ⁶Bicep Bk

Lines > Add Reference Line

33Cap Ctr Ref Line

Start: ²Cap Ctr

Direction: Horizontal

Length: Both directions

Points > Add Point at Intersection

34Bk CR

¹²Bk Cap Ref Line, ³³Cap Ctr Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point at Intersection

35Fr CR

¹¹Fr Cap Ref Line, ³³Cap Ctr Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point from Point

36Bk CP3

Base: ²Cap Ctr

X: [Measure ²Cap Ctr to ³⁴Bk CR] / 4

Points > Add Point from Point

37Fr CP3

Base: ²Cap Ctr

X: - [Measure ²Cap Ctr to ³⁵Fr CR] / 4

Lines > Add Line

38Bk Cap Ref Line

From: ³⁶Bk CP3 to ³²Bk CP1

Lines > Add Line

39Fr Cap Ref Line

From: ³⁷Fr CP3 to ³¹Fr CP1

Points > Add Point at Intersection

40Bk CP2

³⁸Bk Cap Ref Line, ³⁰Cap Ref Line

Save

Points > Add Point at Intersection

41Fr CP2

³⁹Fr Cap Ref Line, ³⁰Cap Ref Line

Save

Layers > Add Layer

42Sleeve Outline

Parent: PMP

Name: Sleeve Outline

Save & Switch

Curves > Add Curve

43Fr Cap Curve

From: ⁷Bicep Fr to ²Cap Ctr

Curve Points: 3

Bottom curve point to ³¹Fr CP1, center curve point to ⁴¹Fr CP2, top curve point to ³⁷Fr CP3

Curves > Add Curve

44Bk Cap Curve

From: ⁶Bicep Bk to ²Cap Ctr

Curve Points: 3

Bottom curve point to ³²Bk CP1, center curve point to ⁴⁰Bk CP2, top curve point to ³⁶Bk CP3

Lines > Add Line

45Bk Upper

From: ⁶Bicep Bk to ²⁷Dart P1

Lines > Add Line

46Bk Lower

From: ²⁸Dart P2 to ²²Wrist Bk

Lines > Add Line

47Fr Arm

From: ⁷Bicep Fr to ²¹Wrist Fr

Curves > Add Curve

48Wrist Curve

From: ²¹Wrist Fr to ²²Wrist Bk

Curve Points: 3

Left curve point to ¹⁶Wrist Ref 2, center curve point to ¹⁹Wrist Ref 4, right curve point to ¹⁸Wrist Ref 3. Adjust to a gentle shape.

Darts > Register Dart

49Elbow Dart

Apex: ¹⁵Dart Apex

Dart Leg Stay: ²⁸Dart P2

Dart Leg Fold: ²⁷Dart P1

Direction: ²²Wrist Bk

Name: ElbowDart

Finish > Add Text at Point

50Label Pattern

Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions

Finish > Mark Sleeve Ease

51Sleeve Ease

Front Armhole: ³¹Armhole Front Bodice

Back Armhole: ³⁰Armhole Back Bodice

Front Sleeve: ⁴³Fr Cap Curve

Back Sleeve: ⁴⁴Bk Cap Curve

Finish > Add Grainline

52Grainline

Vertical

Click to locate the top of the line near ²⁹Cap Ref.

Length: {Underarm Length}

Finish > Add Notch

53Front Notch

Select: ⁴³Fr Cap Curve

Distance: 3" or 76 mm

From: ⁷Bicep Fr

Type: Single

Notch should point to selected line.

Finish > Add Notch

54Back Notch

Select: ⁴⁴Bk Cap Curve

Distance: 3" or 76 mm

From: ⁶Bicep Bk

Type: Double

Notch should point to selected line.

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

55Seam Allowance

Select: ⁴³Fr Cap Curve, ⁴⁴Bk Cap Curve, ⁴⁵Bk Upper, ⁴⁹Elbow Dart Ext Line 1, ⁴⁹Elbow Dart Ext Line 2, ⁴⁶Bk Lower, ⁴⁸Wrist Curve, ⁴⁷Fr Arm

Other Side if inside pattern.

Finish > Hide Points

56Hide Points

Hide the points that remain.

Layers > Layer Visibility

57Hide Draft

Hide Sleeve Draft layer.

58Print

File > Export PDF

Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.