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Production Pattern Finishes

The difference between a working draft and a production-ready pattern lies in the details.

From directional staystitching to designated seam allowances, clear visual standards eliminate guesswork on the cutting table. Follow along as we master the art of finishing patterns with the technical annotations professional garment construction demands.

If you don't have a draft to start from, download the 103 bodice front, back and sleeve SVG as a starting point. Learn how to use the Import PMP SVG tool.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Colors & Styles​

While the colors in this reference sheet were chosen to illustrate the clarity of visual coding, your design standards are up to you. Take advantage of PatternMaker Pro’s Add Custom Style/Color tool to build a dedicated styling palette that matches your brand or studio workflow.

This is especially useful when a design has variable seam allowances, like the 3/8" (10 mm) neckline and 1/4" (6 mm) armhole here. Give each width its own line color or dash style, and you can tell the edges apart at a glance. You are never limited to the standard presets. PatternMaker Pro lets you choose from over 16 million colors and combine them with ten dash patterns. See the Edit Custom Styles tool for details.

Pattern Markings & Line Legend​

The last page of this instruction set includes a sample legend. You may want to include something similar with your pattern sewing instructions.

Finish > Set Seam Allowance Defaults
1Set Default Values
Neckline: 0.375" or 10 mm
Armhole: 0.25" or 6 mm
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance
2CF Seam Allowance
Method: Individual
Select: FKCenter Front
Value: 0 Zero
Finish > Add Cut on Fold
3Cut CF on Fold
Select: FKCenter Front
Other Side if outside pattern.
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance
4Neckline SA
Method: Multiple
Select: FSNeckline Fr, BSNeckline Bk
Value: Neckline Default 0.375 or 10 mm
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance
5Armhole SA
Method: Multiple
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk, SJBk Cap Curve, SIFr Cap Curve
Value: Armhole Default 0.25" or 6 mm
Process > Add Hem
6Sleeve Hem
Type: Woven
Select: SSWrist Line on sleeve
Sides: SLBack Line, SKFront Curve
Hem Depth: 1" or 25 mm
Raw Edge Turn: 0.25" or 6 mm
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance
7French Seams
Method: Multiple
Select: FPSide Line Fr, BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SKFront Curve
Value: Custom
Width: 0.625 or 16 mm
Lines > Offset Line
8French Seam 1st
Select: FPSide Line Fr
Distance: 0.375 or 10 mm
Style: Dark Purple Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern. This is the French seam 1st stitching line.
Repeat For : BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SLBack Line Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve
Lines > Offset Line
9French Seam Trim
Select: FPSide Line Fr
Distance: 0.125 or 3 mm
Style: Orange Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern. This is the French seam trim line.
Repeat For : BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SLBack Line Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve
Finish > Add Notch
10Armhole Notch Fr
Select: FQArmhole Fr
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: FDArmpit Fr
Type: Single
Notch should point to selected line.
Finish > Add Notch
11Armhole Notch Bk
Select: BQArmhole Bk
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: BDArmpit Bk
Type: Double
Finish > Add Notch
12Back Cap Notch
Select: SJBk Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: SBBicep Back
Type: Double
Finish > Add Notch
13Front Cap Notch
Select: SIFr Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: SCBicep Front
Type: Single
Points > Add Point on Line/Curve
14Underarm Alignment
Select: SKFront Curve
End: SCBicep Front
Distance: Measure SMBack Line
Style: Blue Solid
Save
Finish > Add Alignment Marks
15CB Alignment
Select: BKCenter Back
From: BACenter Neck Bk
Distance: 6" or 150 mm
Start: 1
Style: Blue Solid
Save
Finish > Add Grainline
16Back Grainline
Vertical
Click close to BKCenter Back to locate the top of the line.
Length: Measure BKCenter Back * .75
Finish > Add Grainline
17Sleeve Grainline
Vertical
Click just under SACap to locate the top of the line.
Length: Measure SKFront Curve
Curves > Offset Curve
18Stay Stitch Guide
Select: FSNeckline Fr
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Style: Black Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern.
Curves > Offset Curve
19Stay Stitch Guide
Select: BSNeckline Bk
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Style: Black Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern.
Finish > Add Direction Marks
20Stay Stitch Fr
Select: 18Stay Stitch Guide
Arrows point to Center Front. Reduce the Arrow Size.
Finish > Add Direction Marks
21Stay Stitch Bk
Select: 19Stay Stitch Guide
Arrows point to Center Back. Reduce the Arrow Size.
Finish > Mark Sleeve Ease
22Sleeve Cap Ease
Front Armhole: FQArmhole Fr
Back Armhole: BQArmhole Bk
Front Sleeve: SIFr Cap Curve
Back Sleeve: SJBk Cap Curve
Select a location inside the sleeve pattern for the notation.
Finish > Add Measurement Text
23Measure Neckline Fr
Select: FSNeckline Fr
Click near the neckline.
Finish > Add Measurement Text
24Measure Neckline Bk
Select: BSNeckline Bk
Click near the neckline.
Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern
25Front SA
Select: The entire solid black outline of the Front pattern.
Other Side if inside pattern.
Repeat: Back and Sleeve patterns.
Utilities > Change Style/Color
26SA 1/4" 6 mm
You may wish to change the style of seam allowance lines that differ from your standard width.
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk, SJBk Cap Curve, SIFr Cap Curve
Style: Aqua Blue Solid
Make sure you also select any small connecting lines to those listed above.
Utilities > Change Style/Color
27SA 3/8" 10 mm
Select: FSNeckline Fr, BSNeckline Bk
Style: Green Solid
Finish > Add Clip Marks
28Clip Marks
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk
Type: Clip
These are between the seam allowance and the sewing line.
Finish > Add Text at Point
29Label Patterns
Select a location for the pattern label. Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.
Repeat: Do this on the Front, Back and Sleeve

If you don't have a logo to practice with, download a sample logo.

Pattern Markings & Line Legend​

Seam Allowances & Edges​

  • General Seam Allowance (1/2″ / 13 mm): Solid Dark Blue line
  • Armhole & Sleeve Cap Seam Allowance (1/4″ / 6 mm): Solid Aqua line
  • Neckline Seam Allowance (3/8″ / 10 mm): Solid Green line

Construction Lines & Special Techniques​

  • French Seam — Initial Seamline (3/8″ / 10 mm): Dashed Dark Purple line (stitch wrong sides together)
  • French Seam — Trim Line (1/8″ / 3 mm): Dashed Orange line (trim 1/8″ outside the initial seamline)
  • Dart Legs: Dashed Blue lines
  • Staystitching: Dashed Black line with directional arrows (stitch strictly in arrow direction before garment assembly)

Alignment, Matching & Notches​

  • Single Notch: Front armhole and front sleeve cap matching point
  • Double Notch: Back armhole and back sleeve cap matching point
  • Alignment Points (Solid Blue Circles):
  • Sleeve cap to sewn sleeve dart matching reference
  • Center back alignment reference for matching panel edges prior to joining
  • Seam Allowance Clips: Front and back armhole curve relief; snip into the seam allowance perpendicular to the cut edge, to allow the curve to turn smoothly without binding.

Pattern Notations & Dimensions​

  • Green Annotations: Pattern piece labels, grainline arrows, and "Place on Fold" bracketed indicators
  • Neckline Lengths: Front and back pattern pieces indicate exact seamline arc lengths for drafting and attaching collars
  • Sleeve Ease Data: Direct readout of armhole circumference, sleeve cap arc length, and total drafted sleeve head ease