Convertible & Stand Collars
Flat collars are drafted over the bodice shoulder. Convertible and stand collars are different: you draft them on their own, from your neck measurement.
What makes a convertible collar convertible is its neckline curve. The collar's neckline edge is straighter than the neck of the garment, or even curves the opposite way. Buttoned, the collar stands up against the neck. Unbuttoned, it springs open into small lapels (revers).
Anatomy of Convertible and Stand Collars
- Collar Stand (Band): The lower, upright piece that is sewn to the neckline and lifts the collar around the neck.
- Collar Fall (Leaf): The upper part that folds down over the stand.
- Roll Line: The fold where the fall turns over the stand on a one-piece collar.
- Collar Points: The finished front tips of the fall.
- Collar Spread: The distance between the two points when the garment is closed.
- Undercollar: The underneath layer. It is cut slightly smaller than the upper collar so the seam rolls under and stays out of sight.
- Lap (Button Extension): The extension past center front for buttons and buttonholes.
- Break Point: Where the lapel stops fastening and folds back. It sets how high or low the chest opening sits.
- Breakline: The fold line that runs from the break point up past the neck, where the garment turns back to form the lapel.
Collar Variations
A small change in the point spread and in how far the points sit from the neckline changes the look of a collar completely.
| Typical Range | Look | |
|---|---|---|
| Point Length, Two-Piece Collar | 2.5" to 3" (65 to 75 mm), measured from the top of the stand | Classic |
| Point Length, One-Piece Collar | 3.25" to 3.75" (85 to 95 mm), measured from the neckline seam, since it includes the stand | Same visible drop as above |
| Narrow Spread | Under 2.5" to 3" (65 to 75 mm) apart | Points almost parallel to center front |
| Medium Spread | 3" to 4" (75 to 100 mm) apart | Standard, about 45° to 60° from center front |
| Wide Spread | 4.5" to 6" (115 to 150 mm) or more | Wide, horizontal silhouette |
You can also give the front edge a concave sweep for a dagger collar, or shape it into squared or rounded tabs.
The same collar shape can have different spreads. The spread depends on the shape of the stand: the higher the stand is in front, the narrower the spread, and the lower it is, the wider.
The Stand (Mandarin or Nehru)
The stand is the base for both the one-piece and two-piece convertible collars.
- Measure the Neck: Measure the bodice back neck and front neck seams along the stitching line, without seam allowances. Together they are half of the final neck measurement.
- Draw the Baseline: Draw a horizontal line that long. Mark Center Back (CB) at the left end. Measure over the back neck length to mark the Shoulder Notch. Measure over the front neck length to mark Center Front (CF) at the right end.
- Set the Stand Height: Square up 1" to 1 1/2" (25 to 38 mm) at CB and CF to make a rectangle.
- Contour for the Neck Slope: Raise the lower neckline edge at CF by half the stand height, 1/2" to 3/4" (13 to 19 mm). Blend a smooth curve from there back to the Shoulder Notch. Square the CF style edge to the new curve, or round the corner for a traditional Mandarin finish.
- Add the Lap (Optional): If the collar buttons at CF, extend the stand past CF by the button width, ending in a rounded tab.
The One-Piece Convertible Collar
This collar combines the stand and fall in one pattern piece.
- Draw the Stand: Follow the steps above for the stand part.
- Raise the Fall at CB: Make the collar about 1/4" (6 mm) taller than the stand at CB. Go as deep as 1/2" (13 mm) for a stronger roll.
- Place the Point: Extend the top of the CF edge parallel to the CF line. This gives a 1 1/2" (40 mm) point spread. Move the point toward the left to narrow the spread and toward the right to widen it.
- Extend the Point (Optional): For a longer point, move it out past the fall height at CB.
- Make the Undercollar: See below.
The Two-Piece Shirt Collar
A separate stand and leaf make a crisp roll that hugs the neck and holds up under a necktie.
- Draw the Stand: Follow the steps above.
- Draw the Leaf: Draft a rectangle on the same dimensions as the stand, 1/4" (6 mm) taller than the stand at CB.
- Contour the Leaf: Lower the CF point, where the leaf meets the stand, by 1/16" (2 mm).
- Place the Point: Square up from the adjusted CF point and shoulder line to make the point. This gives a 1 1/2" (40 mm) spread. Move the point left to narrow it and right to widen it.
- Extend the Point (Optional): Move the point past the leaf height at CB.
- Add Edge Length (Optional): If the leaf edge rides above the stand seam at the back, add length to the outer edge. Divide the leaf into three equal sections from CB to CF. Slash from the outer edge down to, but not through, the neckline seam. Spread each slash 1/8" (3 mm). Spreading slashes makes a collar lie flatter, while darts or overlapped slashes make it roll more.
- Make the Undercollar: See below.
If you wear the collar with a necktie, move the front collar anchor point 1/8" to 1/4" (3 to 6 mm) back from CF along the stand seamline. The gap lets the tie knot seat without bunching or pushing the points apart.
The Undercollar
The undercollar is drafted from the upper collar and cut smaller, so the outer seam rolls under and stays hidden. Without the reduction, the undercollar can roll out past the stitching.
- Trace the upper collar.
- Keep the neckline edge the same, so it fits the neck seam or the stand seam without stretching.
- Trim 1/8" (3 mm) from the outer style edge, more for bulky fabric, tapering to zero at the collar point. On very light silks and lawns, 1/16" (1.5 mm) is enough.
- Notch 1/4" (6 mm) out from each side of CB at the neckline edge.
Neckline Finishes and Facings
Unlike flat collars, which always need facings, convertible and stand styles depend on how they are put together.
- Tailored Shirts and Band Stands: The inner and outer stands sandwich the neckline seam, so no separate neck facings are needed. On classic shirts, a double yoke encloses the back neckline seam the same way.
- One-Piece Convertible Blouses: Opening the collar rolls the upper front open into lapels, so the front neckline and closure edge need a facing, either applied or cut on and folded over. At the back, the neck can be finished with a back neck facing joined to the front facing at the shoulder, covered by a back yoke, or caught inside the collar.
Convertible Collars and Stands in PatternMaker Pro
PatternMaker Pro's Add Collar tool drafts these in seconds. Set your stand height, fall height and point spread, add a collar point or fastener extension if you want one, and the software draws it for you. (The drafts in the illustrations above came from the program.)
Collar Grain Direction
- Grainlines:
- Stand: lengthwise grain parallel to CB.
- Upper collar: straight lengthwise fold at CB.
- Undercollar: true 45° bias with a CB seam for tailored jackets, or on the fold for lightweight shirts.