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Convertible, Stand & Lapel Collars

Unlike non-convertible collars drafted over the bodice shoulder, convertible and stand collars are drafted independently using neck measurements.

The defining characteristic of a convertible collar is its contrary neckline curve. Because its neckline seamline is straight or curves slightly opposite to the bodice neck, the collar stands upright against the neck when buttoned, but automatically springs open into finished lapels (revers) when unfastened.

ShirtWingConvertible
TuxedoMandarin

Anatomy of Convertible & Stand Collars​

Familiarize yourself with the different parts of these collars to better understand how they are drafted:

Style EdgeStandNecklineBreakBreaklinePointPointSpreadFall
Convertible Collar Anatomy (click to expand)
  • Collar Stand (Band): The lower vertical piece that stitches directly to the garment neckline and lifts the collar up around the neck.
  • Collar Fall (Leaf): The upper turnover portion that folds downward over the stand to frame the neck.
  • Roll Line: The crease or fold along which the fall turns over the stand on a one-piece convertible collar.
  • Collar Points: The finished front tips of the collar fall.
  • Collar Spread: The horizontal distance between the two collar points when the garment is closed at center front.
  • Undercollar: The facing layer that sits against the body or garment . Shaving its outer edge by 1/16" to 1/8" (1.5–3 mm) creates turn-of-cloth tension, forcing the finished seam slightly underneath so it remains completely hidden from the outside.
  • Lap / Button Extension: The extension added beyond Center Front to accommodate buttons and buttonholes (fastener extension width).
  • Break (Break Point): The exact pivot point along the garment’s edge or closing extension where the lapel (rever) ceases to fasten and begins folding back away from the body. It anchors the lower end of the roll line and determines how high or low the chest opening sits.
  • Breakline (Crease Line): On tailored garments and open convertible styles, the line extending from the garment closing up past the neck where the bodice folds back to create the lapel.
  • Facings & Enclosures: How raw neck seams are hidden depends on construction: shirt stands and double yokes enclose their own seam allowances internally, whereas convertible styles and tailored lapels require front facings (often paired with back neck facings or linings) to finish the edges that turn back and show against the body.

Understanding Collar Variations​

You can change the look of a collar drastically by changing the measurement between the point spread and their distance from the neckline.

Collar Points​

The collar point visual weight and balance are determined by two interacting elements:

  • Point Length: Measured along the front collar style edge to the outermost tip:
    • On a Two-Piece Collar (with stand): Measured from the top of the stand (sewn to the collar) to the tip. Standard classic lengths are 2.5" to 3" (65-75 mm).
    • On a One-Piece Convertible Collar: Measured from the neckline seam to the tip. Because this single pattern piece incorporates both the stand and the fall along the front angle, this measurement includes the stand depth, typically drafting at 3.25" to 3.75" (85-95 mm) to achieve an equivalent visible point drop.
  • Point Geometry & Edge Contour: While standard points follow straight edges, the style line can be drafted with a concave sweep to produce dagger collars, or shaped into squared-off or rounded tabs.

Collar Spread​

The spread dictates the angle at which the collar edges break away from the center front:

  • Narrow / Forward Point: Points fall nearly parallel to center front, leaving a narrow opening (typically under 2.5 to 3" / 65-75 mm apart).
  • Medium / Semi-Spread: The standard balanced spread (typically 3" to 4" (75-100 mm) apart), positioning points at roughly a 45° to 60° angle from center front.
  • Wide Spread / Cutaway: Points angle sharply outward toward the shoulders 4.5" to 6" (115-150 mm) or more apart, creating a wide, horizontal silhouette.

Stand & Band Foundations (Mandarin / Nehru)​

The stand collar is the geometric base for both one-piece and two-piece convertible collars.

Back NeckContourStand HeightShoulderCFCBLapExtensionFront Neck
Collar Stand Draft (click to expand)

Step 1: Baseline Measurements​

  1. Measure the bodice Back Neck and Front Neck seams along the stitching line (excluding seam allowances). In total, this is half the final neck measurement.

Step 2: Drafting the Band​

  1. Draw the Baseline: Draw a horizontal line equal to half the total neck measurement (Back Neck + Front Neck). Mark the Center Back (CB) at the left edge, measure over the Back Neck measurement to mark the Shoulder Notch, and measure over the Front Neck measurement to mark the Center Front (CF) at the right edge.
  2. Set the Stand Height: Square up 1" to 1 1/2" (25–38 mm) at CB and CF to form a basic rectangle.
  3. Contour for Neck Slope:
    • Raise the CF lower neck edge upward by one-half the stand height, 1/2" to 3/4" (13–19 mm).
    • Blend with a smooth curve from the raised CF point back to the shoulder notch.
    • Square the CF style edge at right angles to this new curve, or round the corner for a traditional Mandarin finish.
  4. Lap Extension (Optional): If buttoning across CF, extend the band past CF by the extension width (button width) with a rounded tab.

The Classic Convertible Collar (One-Piece)​

The one-piece convertible collar combines the stand and fall into a single pattern piece.

Back NeckStand HeightFall HeightShoulderRoll LineCollar PointFront NeckContourLap ExtCFCB
One-Piece Collar (click to expand)

Step 1: One-Piece Collar Draft​

  1. Draw the Band: Follow steps 1-4 above for the band portion of the collar.
  2. Collar Fall at Center Back: Extend the center back height for the fall. This is typically 0.25" (6 mm) greater than the stand height.
  3. Collar Point & Spread: Extend the center front top point parallel to the center front line. This will result in a 1.5" (40 mm) collar point spread. If you want the spread less, move the point to the left. For a greater spread, move the point right.
  4. Undercollar Pattern:
  • Trace the master upper collar.
  • Keep the neckline edge identical so it fits the garment neck seam without stretching.
  • Shave 1/16" (1.5 mm) for lightweight silks and lawns, or 1/8" (3 mm) for woolens and medium-weight woven fabrics, off the outer style edge, tapering to 0 at the collar point.
  1. Collar Point Extension (Optional): If you want an extended collar point, move the point out further than the fall height at center back.

Two-Piece Tailored Shirt Collar​

A two-piece collar (separate stand and leaf) produces a crisp roll that hugs the neck closely and accommodates ties or neckwear without collapsing.

Back NeckBack NeckContourContourStand HeightCollar HeightShoulderShoulderCFCBLapExtensionFront NeckFront NeckCollar Pointto Standto CollarCollar Edgeto Neck
Two-Piece Collar (click to expand)

Step 1: Two-Piece Collar Draft​

  1. Draw the Stand: Follow steps 1-4 above for the collar stand.
  2. Draft the Collar Foundation: Follow the same dimensions as the stand to draft a rectangle. Make the collar height 0.25" (6 mm) greater than the stand height at center back.
  3. Contour the Collar: Drop the collar center front point (where it connects to the stand) by .0625" (2 mm) to contour the collar.
  4. Collar Point & Spread: Square up from the adjusted center front point / shoulder line to create the collar point. This will result in a 1.5" (40 mm) collar point spread. If you want the spread less, move the point to the left. For a greater spread, move the point right.
  5. Undercollar Pattern:
  • Trace the master upper collar.
  • Keep the neckline edge identical so it fits the stand seam without stretching.
  • Shave 1/16" (1.5 mm) for lightweight silks and lawns, or 1/8" (3 mm) for woolens and medium-weight woven fabrics, off the outer style edge, tapering to 0 at the collar point.
  1. Collar Point Extension (Optional): If you want an extended collar point, move the point out further than the collar height at center back.
  2. Slash and Spread (Optional Edge Ease): If the collar edge lies above the stand-to-neckline seam in the back, you may need to add extra circumference to the collar.
    • Divide the collar into 3 equal sections between CB and CF.
    • Slash from the outer collar edge down to, but not through, the neckline seam.
    • Spread each slash 1/8" (3 mm).
Necktie Accomodation

If the collar will be worn with a necktie, shift the front collar anchor point 1/8″ to 1/4″ (3–6 mm) back from Center Front along the stand seamline. This setback creates a clean gap at the closure, allowing room for the tie knot to seat without bunching or forcing the collar points apart.

Neckline Finishes & Facings by Style​

Unlike flat collars (which always require front and back facings to encase raw edges), convertible and stand styles vary based on how they are assembled:

1. Tailored Shirts & Band Stands (Self-Enclosing)​

  • No Separate Facings Needed: The inner and outer collar stands sandwich the garment neckline seam, completely encasing raw edges without separate neck facings.
  • Double Yokes: In classic shirtmaking, the back neckline seam allowances are enclosed between the inner and outer yoke pieces, leaving a clean finish inside and out.

2. One-Piece Convertible Blouses (Front Facing Required)​

  • Front Bodice Facing: Because unbuttoning the collar causes the upper front bodice to roll open into small revers/lapels, the front neckline and closure edge may be finished with an applied facing or an extended "cut-on" fold-over facing.
  • Back Neck Finish: This depends on the front facing. It can be finished with a back neck facing that joins a front facing at the shoulder. It can also be covered by a back yoke. Finally, it can just be sandwiched within the collar itself.

Convertible Collars & Stands in PatternMaker Pro​

PatternMaker Pro includes an Add Collar tool that automates the drafting process in seconds. Simply specify your stand height, fall height, and point spread, along with optional collar point and fastener extensions, and the software generates the precise draft for you. (The drafts in the illustrations above were done with the program.)

Verification Checklist​

  • Stand vs. Neck Length: Verify the stand seamline equals the bodice neckline seam (Front Neck + Back Neck + ease).
  • Undercollar Reduction: Trim the undercollar outer style edge 1/16 to 1/8 (1.5–3 mm) smaller than the upper collar to pull the seamline under.
  • Grainlines:
    • Stand: Lengthwise grain parallel to CB.
    • Upper Collar: Straight lengthwise fold at CB.
    • Undercollar: Cut on true 45° bias with a CB seam for tailored jackets, or on fold for lightweight shirts.

Review Quiz​

✏️ Question #1: Why is the outer edge of a two-piece collar leaf slashed and spread 1/8" (3 mm) in multiple places during drafting?

✏️ Question #2: What causes a convertible collar to stand upright when buttoned but spring open into lapels when unfastened?

✏️ Question #3: When drafting a tailored notched jacket, why is dart control shifted to the center front to add length along the roll line?