Tailored Lapels
Tailored Notched Collars & Lapels
Tailored collars combine a bodice lapel (rever) with a separate collar leaf joined at the gorge line (collar step). These drafts can be more of a challenge, but well worth the investment.
Notched Lapel Sample Garment (1/2 scale)
Step 1: Bodice Control Shift (Preventing Hem Hike)
When a jacket buttons and rolls back, tension across the front can cause the garment front to hike up. Shift the bust dart intake to the center front to add length along the fold line:
Basic Sloper Waist Control Moved to Center Front
| Closing Type | Break Point Position | Shift to Center Front |
|---|---|---|
| High Closing | 1" to 3" (25–75 mm) above bust | 1/4" (6 mm) |
| Medium Closing | Bust level | 3/4" (19 mm) |
| Low Single-Breasted | 2" (50 mm) below bust | 1" (25 mm) |
| Waistline Closing | At waistline | 1 1/4" (32 mm) |
| Double-Breasted | Any level | Half the single-breasted amount |
| Tuxedo (Straight Open) | Any level | 0 (No extra length required) |
Step 2: Establishing the Roll Line & Lapel
- Add the front extension for buttons: 3/4" (19 mm) for single-breasted; 2" to 3" (50–75 mm) for double-breasted.
- Mark the Break Point on the extension edge where the lapel begins to roll.
- Extend the bodice shoulder line at the neck edge by 3/4" to 1" (19–25 mm) to establish the stand allowance.
- Draw the Roll Line straight from the Break Point through the extended shoulder point.
- Fold along the roll line, sketch the desired lapel and collar notch shape, and trace through to unfold.
Step 3: Facing Construction & Roll Ease
- Rever Facing: The entire lapel turns back toward the outside of the body, making the facing the visible upper layer. Cut a separate front facing that extends from the hem, along the lapel contour, and across the front neckline to the shoulder.
- Roll Ease on Lapels: Because the facing rolls to the outside above the break point, draft the facing 1/16" to 1/8" (1.5–3 mm) wider along the lapel style edge than the front bodice. This extra ease pulls the finished seam slightly underneath so it remains hidden from the front.
- Back Neck Facing: Draft a 2" to 2.5" (50–65 mm) back neck facing matching the back bodice neckline. This joins the front facings at the shoulder seam to secure the back collar seam and frame the inside neck or anchor the lining.
Step 4: Final Pattern Detailing & Production Prep
1: Piece Identification & Cutting Directives
| Pattern Piece | Standard Grainline | Bias Option | Cut Quantity | Interfacing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Collar | Straight (Parallel to CB) | Cut on fold at CB | Cut 1 Self | 1 Fusible |
| Under Collar | Straight (Cut 1 on fold) | True 45° Bias (Cut 2 with CB seam) | Cut 1 or 2 Self | 1 or 2 Fusible |
| Bodice Front Final | Straight (Parallel to CF) | N/A | Cut 2 Self | Lapel area |
| Front Facing | Straight (Parallel to CF) | N/A | Cut 2 Self | 2 Fusible |
| Back Neck Facing | Straight (Parallel to CB) | Cut on fold at CB | Cut 1 Self | 1 Fusible |
Under Collar Grainline
If cutting the undercollar on the true 45° bias to improve neck hugging, do not cut on the fold. Add a center-back seam allowance and cut 2 so the seam can be shaped to the neck contour with steam.
2. Seam Allowances & Bulk Reduction
- Standard Construction Seams: Apply your baseline allowance (such as 1/2" or 5/8" / 12.7 mm or 15 mm) to shoulder, side, and neck seams.
- Collar & Lapel Outer Edges: Reduce to 1/4" (6 mm) along the collar leaf edge and the lapel turning perimeter to eliminate bulky seam trimming after stitching.
- Undercollar Roll Adjustment: Trim 1/16" to 1/8" (1.5–3 mm) along the outer perimeter and style ends of the undercollar pattern so the upper collar easily rolls over the edge.
- Fold Lines: Ensure 0 seam allowance along any edge marked Cut on Fold.