Draft Cowls

Cowl Neckline Sample Garment (1/2 scale)

Base Pattern

Initially you will create what is referred to as a Vertical Center Front Control. The resulting pattern is not something that you would use "as is". It creates a pattern that is merely a starting point for more complex designs. In this case, we'll use it to create different cowls.

Cowl Patterns

There are three different sets of instructions for cowls. Cowl #1 incorporates the dart intake into the cowl with no additional fullness. Cowl #2 has the dart intake plus a bit more fullness. Cowl #3 is the deepest cowl with lots of drape. This is the one in the image above.

If you don't have a draft to start from, download the 101 front bodice SVG as a starting point. Learn how to use the Import PMP SVG tool.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Facing

The center depth of the facing depends on the depth of the cowl, Deeper cowls require a longer facing inside to ensure a clean finish. You can draft the facing as a separate pattern piece; just remember to add seam allowances to both the facing and cowl edges. Using a contrasting or lighter fabric for the facing is also an option, as shown in the sample garment. Facing instructions apply to any of the cowl designs.

1Starting Bodice

Note the point names for the starting bodice referenced later.

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

2Shoulder Slash

Select: ^RShoulder Line

Distance: Default Center

Save & Split

Darts > Move Dart

3Shoulder Dart

Dart: BustDart

Transfer: 100%

Select: ²Shoulder Slash, ^CShoulder, ^DArmpit, ^ESide Waist, ^FDart Leg 2

Name: ShldrDart

Lines > Add Reference Line

4Apex Ref Line

Start: ^HBust Apex

Direction: Horizontal

Length: One direction (right)

Points > Add Point at Intersection

5Center Apex

^KCenter Front, ⁴Apex Ref Line

Save & Split ^KCenter Front

Layers > Move Items to Layer

6Rotation Layer

Select: ⁵Center Apex, Upper ^KCenter Front, ^ACenter Neck, ^SNeckline, ^BSide Neck, ^RShoulder Line right, ²Shoulder Slash

Type: New Layer

Name: Rotation Layer

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Rotate Layer To

7Rotate

Layer: Rotation Layer

Moving/Target: ²Shoulder Slash, Left Dart Leg Point

Pivot: ^HApex Point

Darts > Remove Dart

8Remove Dart

Dart: ShldrDart

Lines > Add Reference Line

9Center Ref Line 1

Start: ^ACenter Neck

Direction: On Vector ⁵Center Apex

Length: One direction (down)

Lines > Add Reference Line

10Center Ref Line 2

Start: ^ICenter Waist

Direction: Vertical

Length: One direction (up)

Points > Add Point at Intersection

11Center Front Pt

⁹Center Ref Line 1, ¹⁰Center Ref Line 2

Save

Save & Split

Lines > Add Line

12Shoulder Line

From: ^CShoulder to ^BSide Neck

Process > Add Cowl

13Cowl #1

Select Center: ¹¹Center Front Pt,

Select Side: ^BSide Neck

Select Line/Curve: ¹⁰Center Ref Line 2

Points > Add Point from Point

14Extension Pt

Base: ¹¹Center Front Pt

X: 1" or 25 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

15Ext Ref Line

Start: ^ICenter Waist

Direction: On Vector ¹⁴Extension Pt

Length: One direction (up)

Process > Add Cowl

16Cowl #2

Select Center: ^ICenter Waist

Select Side: ^BSide Neck

Select Line/Curve: ¹⁵Ext Ref Line

Shapes > Add Circle at Point

17Depth Circle

Select: ^BSide Neck

Radius: Enter the depth you want the cowl to be. 12" or 300 mm was used in this example.

Points > Add Free Point

18Vector Pt

Place the point on the circle where it extends the furthest away from ^BSide Neck and ^ICenter Waist

Lines > Add Reference Line

19Ext Ref Line

Start: ^ICenter Waist

Direction: On Vector ¹⁸Vector Pt

Length: One direction (up)

Process > Add Cowl

20Cowl #3

Select Center: ^ICenter Waist

Select Side: ^BSide Neck

Select Line/Curve: ¹⁹Ext Ref Line

Layers > Move Items to Layer

21Facing Prelim

Select: ¹²Shoulder Line, Cowl Line 1

Type: New Layer

Name: Facing Prelim

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Mirror Layer

22Facing Ext

Select: Facing Prelim

Parent: PMP

Name: Facing Ext

Points: ^BSide Neck, Cowl Ext Pt

Offset: 0

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

23Shoulder End

Select: Shoulder Mirror Line

Distance: 1.25" or 32 mm

Make sure it is measured from ^BSide Neck

Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

24Center End

Select: Center Mirror Line

Distance: 4" or 100 mm

Make sure it is measured from Cowl Ext Pt

Save & Split

Lines > Delete Lines/Curves & Points

25Delete Lines

Select: ²³Shoulder End at ^BSide Neck, ²⁴Center End at Cowl Ext Pt

These lines are not connected to the main pattern and the seam allowance process will fail unless they are redrawn.

Lines > Add Line

26Side Neck Facing

From: ^BSide Neck to ²³Shoulder End point.

Lines > Add Line

27Ctr Neck Facing

From: Cowl Ext Pt to ²⁴Center End point.

Curves > Add Curve

28Facing Curve

From: ²³Shoulder End to ²⁴Center End

Curve Points: 1

Make a gentle curve for the facing edge.

Curves > Add Curve

29Waist Curve

From: ^ESide Waist to ^ICenter Waist

Curve Points: 1

Create a very slight curve. Don't drop below the ^LWaist line.

Finish > Add Grainline

30Bias Grainline

On Bias

Center of the crossed lines

Length: 6" or 150 mm

Lines > Delete Lines/Curves & Points

31Delete Lines

Select: Excess ²²Facing Ext past ²³Shoulder End, Excess ²²Facing Ext past²⁴Center End, ^SNeckline, Old Center Front lines

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

32Center SA

Select: Both center lines (Cowl Line 1, Facing Ctr)

Value: Custom

Width: 0

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

33Cut Fold

Select: Cowl Line 1

Other Side if outside pattern.

Utilities > Change Style/Color

34Facing Fold

Select: Cowl Line 2

Style: Red Dashed

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

35Seam Allowance

Select: Select the entire outline of the pattern.

Other Side if inside pattern.

36Finish

Finish up with labeling the pattern, hiding points and hiding or deleting unwanted geometry.