Draft a Notched Lapel

Notched Lapel Sample Garment (1/2 scale)

This lesson guides you through drafting a classic notched lapel collar. While this draft requires care and precision, mastering it is a huge milestone. Working through the steps will build your confidence not just as a pattern drafter, but as a designer. Once you’ve completed this piece, you’ll have the core skills to draft an endless variety of tailored collar designs.

If you don't have a draft to start from, download the 103 front and back bodice SVG as a starting point. Learn how to use the Import PMP SVG tool.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Preparation

Before jumping into the draft, take a moment to sketch out the look and proportions of your lapel. Decide on key design elements like the center front extension for your overlap, the break point location down the center front line, the notch placement and spread, and the overall lapel shape.

A quick way to create your sketching base is to open your front bodice sloper draft and export it. Export an SVG if you want to sketch digitally in a vector program like Affinity Designer or Illustrator, or export a PNG if you prefer to print it out and draw on it by hand. Once your sketch is complete, import it back in as a PNG or JPG background image to trace against.

The first few steps below will walk you through preparing and importing your reference image.

Don't want to sketch your own? Download the notched lapel sketch that I used.

Shapes > Add Rectangle at Point

1Scaling Box

Select: ^FHBust Apex Front

Alignment: Top Left

Width: 2" or 50.8 mm

Height: 2" or 50.8 mm

Pro > Export SVG Image

2Export SVG

For vector sketch -

Select a place on your computer to save the SVG.

After you are done sketching, save your work as a PNG or JPG.

3Export PNG

For hand sketch -

File > Export PNG

Select a place on your computer to save the image.

After you are done sketching, save your work as a PNG or JPG.

Image > Import Image

4Import Image

Select your PNG sketch.

Image > Scale Image

5Scale Image

Select: Your imported image

Follow the instructions using the scaling box on your sketch.

Width: 2" or 50.8 mm

Height: 2" or 50.8 mm

Drawn Width / Height: Make sure these are the same value

Image > Drag Image

6Drag Image

Drag your sketch over the top of your draft to line them up.

Lines > Offset Line

7Overlap Extension

Select: ^FKCenter Front

Distance: 1.5" or 38 mm (sketch)

Make sure it draws outside pattern.

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

8Break

Select: ⁷Overlap Extension

End: Point at top

Distance: 6.5" or 165 mm (sketch)

Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Vector

9Side Nk Adj

Start: ^FBSide Neck Front

Vector: ^FCShoulder Front

Distance: 0.75" or 19 mm

Make sure it extends beyond ^FBSide Neck Front

Lines > Add Line

10Roll Line

From: ⁹Side Nk Adj to ⁸Break

Style: Dark Blue Dash

Points > Add Point on Vector

11Bk Ref 1

Start: ⁹Side Nk Adj

Vector: ⁸Break

Distance: Measure ^BSNeckline Back + 0.25" or 6 mm

Make sure it extends beyond ⁹Side Nk Adj

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

12Bk Ref 2

Origin: ¹¹Bk Ref 1

Vector: ⁹Side Nk Adj

Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm

Save

Make sure the point is left of ¹¹Bk Ref 1

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

13Bk Ref 3

Origin: ¹²Bk Ref 2

Vector: ⁹Side Nk Adj

Distance: 1.25 " or 32 mm

Save

Make sure the point is left of ¹²Bk Ref 2. This is the stand height.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

14Bk Ref 4

Origin: ¹³Bk Ref 3

Vector: ¹²Bk Ref 2

Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm

Save

This is just below ¹³Bk Ref 3

Points > Add Point on Vector

15Bk Ref 5

Start: ¹²Bk Ref 2

Vector: ¹⁴Bk Ref 4

Distance: [Measure ¹²Bk Ref 2 to ¹⁴Bk Ref 4] + 0.5" or 13 mm

This extends beyond ¹¹Bk Ref 1

Layers > Add Layer

16Sketch Pts Layer

Parent: PMP

Name: Sketch Pts Layer

Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

17Sketch Pts

Repeatedly use this tool to create points at all the places shown in the diagram above A - E

Lines > Add Line

18Sketch Lines

Repeatedly use this tool to create lines.

In Example: A-B, B-C, C-D, C-E

Curves > Add Curve

19Sketch Curve

In Example:

From: D to ⁸Break

Curve Points: 2

Layers > Mirror Layer

20Lapel Draft

Select: Sketch Pts Layer

Parent: PMP

Name: Lapel Draft

Replace: Lapel

Axis: ⁹Side Nk Adj, ⁸Break

Offset: 0

Points > Merge Points

21Break Pt

Keep: ⁸Break

Merge: ⁸Break Lapel

At: Center

This is necessary for the seam allowance closed shapes later.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

22Bk Offset 1

Origin: ¹⁴Bk Ref 4

Vector: ¹²Bk Ref 2

Distance: 1.5" or 38 mm

Save & Line

Curves > Add Curve

23Bk Curve 1

From: ²²Bk Offset 1 to C Lapel

Curve Points: 3

Sweep through E Lapel and ^FBSide Neck Front. Keep it nearly straight from E Lapel to C Lapel.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

24Bk Offset 2

Origin: ¹⁵Bk Ref 5

Vector: ¹²Bk Ref 2

Distance: 1" or 25 mm

Save & Line

Curves > Add Curve

25Bk Curve 2

From: ²⁴Bk Offset 2 to B Lapel

Curve Points: 3

Create a smooth transition between through A Lapel.

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

26Facing 1

Select: ^FRShoulder Line Front

End: ^FCShoulder Front

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

27Facing 2

Select: ^FLWaist Front

End: ^FICenter Waist Front

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Save & Split

Curves > Add Curve

28Facing Curve

From: ²⁶Facing 1 to ²⁷Facing 2

Curve Points: 1

Lines > Add Line

29Waist Ext Line

From: ²⁷Facing 2 to ⁷Overlap Extension point

Curves > Add Curve

30Lapel Curve

From: ^FBSide Neck Front to C Lapel

Curve Points: 1

Follow the ²³Bk Curve 1

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

31Facing Pattern

Select: ^FRShoulder Line Front 1, ³⁰Lapel Curve, C-D Lapel, ¹⁹Sketch Curve Lapel, ⁷Overlap Extension 1, ²⁹Waist Ext Line,²⁸Facing Curve

New Layer: Facing Pattern

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

32Hide Layer

Hide the ³¹Facing Pattern.

Lines > Add Line

33Center Back

From: ¹⁴Bk Ref 4 to ¹⁵Bk Ref 5

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

34Back Collar Pattern

Select: ³³Center Back, ²⁴Bk Offset 2 Line, ²⁵Bk Curve 2, B-C Lapel, ²³Bk Curve 1, ²²Bk Offset 1 Line

New Layer: Back Collar Pattern

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

35Hide Layer

Hide the ³⁴Back Collar Pattern.

Lines > Add Line

36Under Center Back

From: ¹³Bk Ref 3 to ¹⁵Bk Ref 5

Lines > Add Line

37Under Line

From: ¹³Bk Ref 3 to ²²Bk Offset 1

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

38Under Collar Pattern

Select: ³⁶Under Center Back, ²⁴Bk Offset 2 Line, ²⁵Bk Curve 2, B-C Lapel, ²³Bk Curve 1, ³⁷Under Line

New Layer: Under Collar Pattern

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

39Hide Layer

Hide the ³⁸Under Collar Pattern.

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

40Bodice Front Final

Select: ^FRShoulder Line Front 1, ³⁰Lapel Curve, C-D Lapel, ¹⁹Sketch Curve Lapel, ⁷Overlap Extension 1, ²⁹Waist Ext Line, ^FLWaist Front, ^FMDart Ext Front, ^FNDart Ext Front, ^FOWaist Front, ^FPSide Line Front, ^FQArmhole Front, ^FRShoulder Line Front 0, ¹⁰Roll Line, ^FUDart Stay Front, ^FVDart Move Front

New Layer: Bodice Front Final

Parent: PMP

Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

41Hide Layers

Hide the ⁴⁰Bodice Front Final.

Layers > Select Active Layer

42Activate Layer

Switch to the ³¹Facing Pattern.

Layers > Layer Visibility

43Show Layer

Show the ³¹Facing Pattern and hide the others.

Layers > Flip Layer

44Flip Facing

Select: Facing Pattern

Flip: Left to Right

Point: D Lapel

Points > Move Point XY

45Roll Ease

Select: ²⁸Facing Curve green curve point, ²⁷Facing 2

X: 0.0625" or 2 mm

Points > Move Point XY

46Roll Ease

Select: ²⁶Facing 1

X: 0.0625" or 2 mm

Y: - 0.0625" or -2 mm

Final Pattern Detailing & Markings

Use the Layer Visibility tool to isolate and finish each pattern layer individually:

• Back Collar Pattern (upper)
• Under Collar Pattern
• Bodice Front Final
• Facing Pattern

Step 1: Seam Allowances & Trimming

• Reduce outer collar and lapel edges to 1/4″ (6 mm) to ease turning.
• Roll Ease: trim 1/16″ to 1/8″ (1.5–3 mm) along the outer perimeter of the Under Collar pattern so the seam rolls under out of sight.
• Confirm 0 seam allowance on any edge designated as Cut on Fold.
• Add standard seam allowances to garment construction seams (shoulder, side, neck).

Step 2: Notches & Alignment Marks

Add matching notches across all joining seams:

• Lapel Break Point: Bodice Front & Facing.
• Collar Step: Bodice neckline, Facing, and Collar ends.
• Shoulder Match & Center Back: Mark collar neckline and center back.
• Armhole: Front sleeve match notch.

Step 3: Grainlines, Closures & Labels

• Grainlines: Mark straight of grain parallel to CF/CB on all pieces (see Academy page for 45° bias undercollar option).
• Buttons / Buttonholes: Mark button centers directly on the Center Front line (not the extension edge).
• Labels: Note Pattern Name, Piece Name, Date, Measurement Set, and Cut Quantities (Self & Interfacing).