Draft a Peter Pan Collar

This lesson guides you through drafting a Peter Pan type collar.

Pattern Requirements & Design Specifications

Base Patterns: Front and back bodice slopers/blocks. If you don't have them, download the 103 front and back bodice SVG as a starting point. Learn how to use the Import PMP SVG tool.
Collar Width: 2.5″ (64 mm) demonstrated; fully customizable.
Collar Points: Rounded front corners (curves replace traditional collar points).
Shoulder Overlap: 2″ (50 mm) at the armhole edge, pivoting from the side neck point (creates approx. 1/2″ / 13 mm stand for neck clearance).
Undercollar & Interfacing: Drafting instructions for both pieces are nested within the upper collar pattern to minimize printing and paper waste.
Facing: Instructions for a separate facing are also included.
Closure & Orientation: Drafted with a center-back seam allowance for back closures. For front-opening garments, place center back on the fold and separate the collar at center front.

New to these instructions? Practice Basics explains point movement, how to read each step and contains other helpful tips.

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

1Collar Trace Front

Select: ^FQArmhole Front, ^FRShoulder Line Front, ^FSNeckline Front, ^FKCenter Front

New Layer: Collar Trace Front

Parent: PMP

Find: (leave blank)

Replace: _Collar

Save

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

2Collar Trace Back

Select:^BKCenter Back, ^BSNeckline Back, ^BRShoulder Line Back, ^BQArmhole Back

New Layer: Collar Trace Back

Parent: PMP

Find: (leave blank)

Replace: _Collar

Save & Switch

Layers > Layer Visibility

3Hide Layers

Hide all layers except the Collar Trace Front and Back.

Layers > Align Layers

4Align Shoulders

Stay Layer: ¹Collar Trace Front

Move Layer: ²Collar Trace Back

Stay Target: ^FBSide Neck Front

Move Target: ^BBSide Neck Back

Stay End: ^FCShoulder Front

Move End: ^BCShoulder Back

Overlap: 2" or 50 mm

Make sure the patterns overlap not spread, Other Side if necessary.

Curves > Add Curve

5Collar Neckline

From: ^FACenter Neck Front to ^BACenter Neck Back

Curve Points: 2

Follow the front and back neckline traces smoothing out the connection at the shoulder. Don't vary more than .0625 to 0.125 (1.5-3 mm) away from the shoulder point.

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

6Collar CB

Select: ^BKCenter Back

End: ^BACenter Neck Back

Distance: 2.5" or 64 mm

Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

7Collar CF

Select: ^FKCenter Front

End: ^FACenter Neck Front

Distance: 2.5" or 64 mm

Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

8Collar Shldr RP

Select: ^FRShoulder Line Front

End: ^FBSide Neck Front

Distance: 2.5" or 64 mm

Style: Orange Solid

Save

Curves > Add Curve

9Collar Edge

From: ⁶Collar CB to ⁷Collar CF

Curve Points: 2

Create a smooth curve running through the ⁸Collar Shldr RP an equal distance away from the ⁵Collar Neckline

Points > Add Point on Line/Curve

10Collar Point

Select: ⁹Collar Edge

End: ⁷Collar CF

Distance: 1.5" or 38 mm

Save & Split

This defines the collar point spread.

Lines > Add Line

11Collar CF Line

From: ^FACenter Neck Front to ¹⁰Collar Point

Lines > Delete Lines/Curves

12Remove Line

Select: ⁹Collar Edge closest to center front

Utilities > Round Corner

13Rounding Point

If you want a more rounded collar point.

Corner: ¹⁰Collar Point

Use the sliders to create the shape you want. It may not be a smooth transition to the connected lines, but you can always redraw the Collar Edge using this rounded corner as a guide.

Curves > Add Curve

14Collar Edge

From: Lower rounded corner point to ^FACenter Neck Front

Curve Points: 1

Follow the rounded corner and create a smooth transition.

Curves > Offset Curve

15Undercollar Offset

Select: ⁹Collar Edge

Distance: 0.125 or 3 mm

Style: Black Dashed

Make sure the curve goes inside the pattern.

Curves > Add Curve

16Undercollar Curve

From: ¹⁵Undercollar Offset end point closest to CF to ^FACenter Neck Front

Curve Points: 2

Distance of ¹⁵Undercollar Offset and then taper to 0 offset at the ^FACenter Neck Front.

Style: Black Dashed

Layers > Move Items to Layer

17Collar Final

Select: ^BKCenter Back, ⁵Collar Neckline, ¹⁴Collar Edge, ⁹Collar Edge, ¹⁵Undercollar Offset, ¹⁶Undercollar Curve

New Layer: Collar Final

Parent: PMP

Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

18Align Shldr

Select: Place the point on the ⁵Collar Neckline at the ^FBSide Neck Front / ^BBSide Neck Back position. This will align to the shoulder seam of the bodice.

Style: Blue Solid

Layers > Layer Visibility

19Hide Layers

Hide all layers except Collar Final.

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

20Seam Allowance

Select: ^BKCenter Back, ⁵Collar Neckline, ¹⁴Collar Edge, ⁹Collar Edge

Type: Single Outline

Other Side if inside pattern.

Curves > Offset Curve

21Undercollar SA

Select: ¹⁵Undercollar Offset

Distance: Enter your seam allowance value

Style: Dark Blue Dashed

Curves > Offset Curve

22Undercollar SA

Select: ¹⁶Undercollar Curve

Distance: Enter your seam allowance value

Style: Dark Blue Dashed

Finish > Add Text at Point

23Collar Label

Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions

Finish > Hide Points

24Hide Points

Hide points.

25Export PDF

File > Export PDF

Choose appropriate page and print.

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

26Facing Neckline

Select: ⁵Collar Neckline

New Layer: Facing

Parent: PMP

Find: Collar

Replace: Facing

Save & Switch

Layers > Layer Visibility

27Hide/Show Layers

Hide the ¹⁷Collar Final layer and show ¹Collar Trace Front and ²Collar Trace Back

Points > Add Point on Vector

28Facing CB

Start: ^BACenter Neck Back

Vector: ⁶Collar CB

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

29Facing CF

Start: ^FACenter Neck Front

Vector: ⁷Collar CF

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Curves > Offset Curve

30Curve Guide

Select: ^BSNeckline Back

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Style: Orange

Curves > Offset Curve

31Curve Guide

Select: ^FSNeckline Front

Distance: 2" or 50 mm

Style: Orange

Curves > Add Curve

32Facing Curve

From: ²⁸Facing CB to ²⁹Facing CF

Curve Points: 2

Follow ³⁰Curve Guide and ³¹Curve Guide

Make sure the start and end points are not the guide's points.

Layers > Layer Visibility

33Hide Layer

Hide the all layers except Facing.

Lines > Add Line

34Facing CB Line

From: ²⁸Facing CB to ^BACenter Neck Back

Lines > Add Line

35Facing CF Line

From: ²⁹Facing CF to ^FACenter Neck Front

Layers > Move Items to Layer

36Hide Guides

Select: ³⁰Curve Guide, ³¹Curve Guide

Existing Layer: Any hidden layer (front tracing)

Save

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

37Fold SA

Select: ³⁵Facing CF Line

Value: Custom

Width: 0 (zero)

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

38Cut Fold

Select: ³⁵Facing CF Line

Other Side if outside pattern.

Finish > Add Seam Allowance to Pattern

39Facing SA

Select: ³⁴Facing CB Line, ²⁶Facing Neckline, ³⁵Facing CF Line, ³²Facing Curve

Other Side if inside pattern.

Finish > Add Text at Point

40Facing Label

Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions

Finish > Hide Points

41Hide Points

Hide points.

42Export PDF

File > Export PDF

Choose appropriate page and print.