Category: Sloper
Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables
Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Drafting Difficulty: Beginner
Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts)
Companion Patterns: 101-B1 Bodice Back, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve
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If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.
PatternMaker ProEach step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
These instructions contain an adjustment that is based on the cup size of the model. To determine your adjustment, subtract the full Underbust measurement from the full Bust measurement. Round the result to the nearest inch or 25 mm.
Seam Allowance
Determine your seam allowances for the draft and set the defaults. (See page 2)
1Start
This drafts to the left, so place this point to the right.
2Center Waist
Base: 1Start
Y: {Full Length Front} + 0.125" or 3 mm
3Shoulder RP
Base: 1Start
X: - (({Shoulder Across Front} / 2) - 0.125" or 3 mm)
4Center Neck
Base: 2Center Waist
Y: - {Center Length Front}
5Neck Ref Line
Start: 4Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (goes left)
6Side Waist RP
Base: 2Center Waist
X: - (({Bust / Chest Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6 mm)
7Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 3Shoulder RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (goes down)
8Shoulder Tip
From: 2Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front} + 0.125 or 3 mm
Line: 7Shoulder Ref Line
9Across Ref Line
1Start to 3Shoulder RP
10Side Neck
From: 8Shoulder Tip
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Line: 9Across Ref Line
11Slope Ref Line
8Shoulder Tip to 2Center Waist
12Bust Depth
From: 8Shoulder Tip
Distance: {Bust Depth}
Line: 11Slope Ref Line
13Bust Ht
2Center Waist, 12Bust Depth
X: 2Center Waist
Y: 12Bust Depth
14Bust Apex
Base: 13Bust Ht
X: - (({Bust Apex Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm)
15Chest
Select: 4Center Neck, 13Bust Ht
X: Center
Y: Center
16Across Front
Base: 15Chest
X: - (({Across Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6mm)
17Dart Leg 1
Base: 2Center Waist
X: - ({Waist Front} / 4)
Y: 0.1875 or 5 mm
18Side Ref Line
Start: 6Side Waist RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set Distance {Full Length Front}
Line goes up
19Side Waist
From: 10Side Neck
Distance: {Strap} + 0.125" or 3 mm
Line: 18Side Ref Line
20Armpit
Base: 19Side Waist
Y: - {Side Length}
21Side Waist Adj
Locate your Cup Size Adjustment according the instructions on page 2.
Select: 19Side Waist
Pivot: 20Armpit
Distance: Cup Size Adjustment
(1.25" or 32 mm used here)
22Dart Leg 2
Start: 21Side Waist Adj
Vector: 17Dart Leg 1
Distance: ({Waist Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm - [17Dart Leg 1 to 2Center Waist]
23Armhole Ref Line
Start: 20Armpit
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (to right)
24Armhole
20Armpit to 8Shoulder Tip
Curve Points: 2
Do not let the curve drop below 23Armhole Ref Line. The curve comes in toward 16Across Front.
25Neckline Curve Ref
Origin: 10Side Neck
Vector: 8Shoulder Tip
Distance: 5" or 127 mm
Make sure the point goes down.
Save & Line
26Neckline
4Center Neck to 10Side Neck
Curve Points: 1
Don't drop the curve below 5Neck Ref Line or left of 25Neckline Curve Ref
27BustDart
Apex: 14Bust Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 17Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 22Dart Leg 2
Direction: 2Center Waist
Name: BustDart
This dart folds to the center front.
28Center Front
4Center Neck to 2Center Waist
29Waist Line
2Center Waist to 17Dart Leg 1
30Waist Line
22Dart Leg 2 to 21Side Waist Adj
31Side Line
21Side Waist Adj to 20Armpit
32Shoulder Line
8Shoulder Tip to 10Side Neck
33Center Front SA
If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 28Center Front
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)
34True Neckline
First: 26Neckline
Seam: 28Center Front
Second: 26Neckline
Seam: 28Center Front
Move the neckline green curve points to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.
35Outline
32Shoulder Line,26Neckline,28Center Front,29Waist Line,27BustDart- leg stay, leg move, ext line 1, ext line 2, 30Waist Line,31Side Line24Armhole
Move to: New Layer
Name: Outline
Parent: PMP
Save & Switch
36Hide Layer
Hide Draft Layer
37Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions. (Ex: Cut 1 on Fold, Cut 1 / Flip Cut 1, etc).
38Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 24Armhole and 26Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.
39Grainline
If you are not going to cut the front on the fold:
Vertical
Click near 28Center Front
Length: {Center Length Front} * .75
40Center Front Fold
If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 28Center Front
Make sure the marking is inside the pattern, Other Side if not.
41Seam Allowance
Select: 32Shoulder Line, 26Neckline, 28Center Front,29Waist Line,27BustDart - ext line1, ext line 2, 30Waist Line, 31Side Line, 24Armhole
If the blue seam allowance draws to the inside of the pattern, select Other Side.
42Armhole Notch
Select: 24Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 20Armpit
Type: Single
Should be outside 24Armhole
43Hide Points
Hide all points that remain.
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
