Category: Sloper
Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables
Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Drafting Difficulty: Beginner
Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts)
Companion Patterns: 101-B1 Bodice Back, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve
Visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page for this pattern for more information.
If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.
PatternMaker ProEach step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
This pattern goes along with the Basic Block Front 101-F1 and Basic Block Back 101-B1 drafts. I recommend that you open that draft and add this sleeve pattern to the same file. This allows you to make pattern modifications later that require all three patterns. Also, you'll need the front and back armhole measurements when drafting the sleeve.
1Sleeve Pattern
Parent: PMP
Name: Sleeve Pattern
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2Sleeve Draft
Parent: Sleeve Pattern
Name: Sleeve Draft
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3Cap
This sleeve drafts from the center out. Place the first point to the right of the back pattern.
4Wrist Ctr
Base: 3Cap
Y: {Overarm Length}
5Cap Height
Base: 3Cap
Y: {Cap Height}
6Elbow RP
5Cap Height, 4Wrist Ctr
X: Center
Y: Center
7Elbow Ctr
Base: 6Elbow RP
Y: - 0.75" or 19 mm
8Bicep Ref Line
Start: 5Cap Height
Direction: Horizontal
Length: One direction (left)
9Armhole Measurement
Select: 24Front Pattern Armhole &
33Back Pattern Armhole
Write down total armhole.
10Armhole Length
From: 3Cap
Distance: (9Armhole Measurement / 2 )+ 0.25" or 6 mm
Line: 8Bicep Ref Line
11 Bicep Ref Pt
Base: 5Cap Height
X: - ({Bicep} / 2)
12Bicep Back
10Armhole Length, 11 Bicep Ref Pt
X: Center
Y: Center
13Back Cap Line
3Cap to 12Bicep Back
14Back Cap Pts
Line: 13Back Cap Line
Number of Points: 3
Save
15Bicep Front
Base: 5Cap Height
X: [Measure 5Cap Height to 12Bicep Back
16Front Cap Line
3Cap to 15Bicep Front
17Front Cap Pts
Line: 16Front Cap Line
Number of Points: 3
Save
18Wrist Back Ref
12Bicep Back, 4Wrist Ctr
X: 12Bicep Back
Adjust X: 2" or 51 mm
Y: 4Wrist Ctr
19Wrist Front Ref
Base: 4Wrist Ctr
X: [Measure 4Wrist Ctr to 18Wrist Back Ref]
20Back Cap 1
Origin: 14Back Cap Pts closest to 12Bicep Back
Vector: 12Bicep Back
Distance: 0.375" or 10 mm
Line points inward.
Save & Line
21Back Cap 2
Origin: 14Back Cap Pts center
Vector: 12Bicep Back
Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm
Line points outward.
Save & Line
22Back Cap 3
Origin: 14Back Cap Pts closest to 3Cap
Vector: 12Bicep Back
Distance: 0.625" or 16 mm
Line points outward.
Save & Line
23Front Cap 1
Origin: 17Front Cap Pts closest to 15Bicep Front
Vector: 15Bicep Front
Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm
Line points inward.
Save & Line
24Front Cap 2
Origin: 17Front Cap Pts center
Vector: 15Bicep Front
Distance: 0.1875" or 5 mm
Line points outward.
Save & Line
25Front Cap 3
Origin: 17Front Cap Pts closest to 3Cap
Vector: 15Bicep Front
Distance: 0.75" or 19 mm
Line points outward.
Save & Line
26Back Ref Line
12Bicep Back to 18Wrist Back Ref
27Elbow Ref Line
Start: 7Elbow Ctr
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Both Directions
28Intersect
26Back Ref Line, 27Elbow Ref Line
Save
29Elbow Dart 1
Base: 28Intersect
X: - 0.25" or 6 mm
30Dart Apex
29Elbow Dart 1, 7Elbow Ctr
X: Center
Y: Center
31Elbow Dart 2
Start: 29Elbow Dart 1
Vector: 18Wrist Back Ref
Distance: 1" or 25 mm
32Front Ref Line
15Bicep Front to 19Wrist Front Ref
33Front Elbow
27Elbow Ref Line, 32Front Ref Line
Save
34Back Wrist Adj
Base: 18Wrist Back Ref
X: 0.75" or 19 mm
35Wrist Back
Start: 31Elbow Dart 2
Vector: 34Back Wrist Adj
Distance: [Measure 33Front Elbow to 19Wrist Front Ref
36Wrist Front
Start: 35Wrist Back
Vector: 19Wrist Front Ref
Distance: [Measure 18Wrist Back Ref to 19Wrist Front Ref
Point goes to right.
37Outline
Parent: Sleeve Pattern
Name: Outline
Save & Switch
38Back Line
12Bicep Back to 29Elbow Dart 1
39Back Line
31Elbow Dart 2 to 35Wrist Back
40Wrist Line
35Wrist Back to 36Wrist Front
41Front Curve
15Bicep Front to 36Wrist Front
Curve Points: 1
Curve very slightly to 33Front Elbow
42Back Cap Curve
12Bicep Back to 3Cap
Curve Points: 3
Move the curve points so the curve runs through 20Back Cap 1, 21Back Cap 2 and 22Back Cap 3
43Front Cap Curve
15Bicep Front to 3Cap
Curve Points: 3
Move the curve points so the curve runs through 23Front Cap 1, 24Front Cap 2 and 25Front Cap 3
44Back Notch
Select: 42Back Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 12Bicep Back
Type: Double
Notch outside of 42Back Cap Curve
45Front Notch
Select: 43Front Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 15Bicep Front
Type: Single
Notch outside of 43Front Cap Curve
46Elbow Dart
Apex: 30Dart Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 31Elbow Dart 2
Dart Leg Fold: 29Elbow Dart 1
Direction: 35Wrist Back
Name: ElbowDart
47Hem
If you choose to add a hem:
Select: 40Wrist Line
Sides: 39Back Line, 41Front Curve
Hem Depth: 0.75" 19 mm
Raw Edge Turn: 0.25" 6 mm
48Hide Draft
Hide Draft Layer
49Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions. (Ex: Cut 1 on Fold, Cut 1 / Flip Cut 1, etc).
50Grainline
Vertical
Select: Just under 5Cap Height
Length: {Overarm Length} * .75
51Sleeve Ease
Front Armhole: 24Front Pattern Armhole
Back Armhole: 33Back Pattern Armhole
Front Sleeve: 43Front Cap Curve
Back Sleeve: 42Back Cap Curve
52Seam Allowance
Select: 42Back Cap Curve, 43Front Cap Curve, 41Front Curve, 40Wrist Line*, 39Back Line, 46Elbow Dart extension lines, 38Back Line
*If you chose a hem, select the new wrist line and short side lines instead of 40Wrist Line.
If the blue seam allowance draws inside the pattern, select Other Side.
53Hide Layers
Hide all layers except your final pattern.
54Hide Points
Hide all points that remain.
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
