Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro
Bodice Back 101-B1

Category: Sloper

Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables

Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Drafting Difficulty: Beginner

Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts)

Companion Patterns: 101-F1 Bodice Front, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve


Visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page for this pattern for more information.

Page 2 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Measurements Used:
  • Across Back
  • Bust Back
  • Center Length Back
  • Full Length Back
  • Neck Back
  • Shoulder Across Back
  • Shoulder Length
  • Shoulder Slope Back
  • Side Length
  • Waist Back

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Companion Patterns

This pattern goes along with the Bodice Front 101-F1 draft. I recommend that you open that draft and add this back pattern to the same file. This allows you to make pattern modifications later that require both the front and back patterns together. Also, this will allow you to true the armhole curves.

Dart Intake

Standard waist dart intake is 1.5" or 38 mm. If the model is petite or junior, the recommended value is 1" or 25 mm.

Page 3 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Layers > Add Layer

1Back Pattern
Parent: PMP
Name: Back Pattern
Save

Layers > Add Layer

2Back Draft
Parent: Back Pattern
Name: Back Draft
Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

3Start
This drafts to the right, so place this point to the right of the front pattern.

Points > Add Point from Point

4Waist Ctr
Base: 3Start
Y; {Full Length Back}

Points > Add Point from Point

5Shoulder RP
Base: 3Start
X: {Shoulder Across Back} / 2

Lines > Add Reference Line

6Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 5Shoulder RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm goes down

Points > Add Point from Point

7Center Neck
Base: 4Waist Ctr
Y: - {Center Length Back}

Lines > Add Reference Line

8Neck Ref Line
Start: 7Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm goes right

Page 4 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Points > Add Point from Point

9Side Waist RP
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: ({Bust Back} / 2}) + 0.75" or 19 mm

Points > Add Point from Point

10Side Neck
Base: 3Start
X: ({Neck Back} / 2) + 0.125" or 3 mm

Points > Point on Line at Distance

11Shoulder Tip RP
From: 4Waist Ctr
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Back} + 0.125" or 3 mm
Line: 6Shoulder Ref Line

Points > Add Point on Vector

12Shoulder Tip
Start: 10Side Neck
Vector: 11Shoulder Tip RP
Distance: {Shoulder Length} + 0.5" or 13 mm

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

13Neckline RP
Origin: 10Side Neck
Vector: 11Shoulder Tip RP
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
Save & Line

Points > Add Point from Point

14Dart Leg RP
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: {Waist Back} / 4

Points > Add Point from Point

15Side Waist RP 2
Base: 4Waist Ctr
X: ({Waist Back} / 2) + 1.5" or 38 mm + 0.25" or 6 mm
1.5" (38 mm) is dart intake and 0.25" (6 mm) addition is ease. See page 2 regarding dart intake values.

Page 5 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Points > Add Point from Point

16Dart Leg RP
Base: 14Dart Leg RP
X: 1.5" or 38 mm
Value must match step 15 dart intake.

Points > Add Point from Point

17Side Waist
Base: 15Side Waist RP 2
Y: 0.1875 or 5 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

18Side Ref Line
Start: 9Side Waist RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (up)

Points > Point on Line at Distance

19Armpit
From: 17Side Waist
Distance: {Side Length}
Line: 18Side Ref Line

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

20Waist Apex
14Dart Leg RP,16Dart Leg RP
X: Center
Y: Center
Adjust Y: - ({Side Length} - 1" or 25 mm)

Points > Add Point on Vector

21Waist Dart Leg 1
Start: 14Dart Leg RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point drops below 14Dart Leg RP

Points > Add Point on Vector

22Waist Dart Leg 2
Start: 16Dart Leg RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point drops below 16Dart Leg RP

Page 6 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Points > Add Point from 2 Points

23Center RP
10Side Neck,12Shoulder Tip
X: Center
Y: Center

Points > Add Point on Vector

24Shoulder Apex
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 20Waist Apex
Distance: 3" or 76 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

25Dart RP
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 10Side Neck
Distance: 0.25" or 6.5 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

26Dart RP
Start: 23Center RP
Vector: 12Shoulder Tip
Distance: 0.25" or 6.5 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

27Shldr Dart Leg 1
Start: 25Dart RP
Vector: 24Shoulder Apex
Distance: 0.125 or 3 mm
Make sure point goes above 25Dart RP

Points > Add Point on Vector

28Shldr Dart Leg 2
Start: 26Dart RP
Vector: 24Shoulder Apex
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Make sure point goes above 26Dart RP

Points > Add Point from Point

29Across Ht
Base: 7Center Neck
Y: [Measure 7Center Neck to 4Waist Ctr] / 4

Points > Add Point from Point

30Across Pt
Base: 29Across Ht
X: ({Across Back} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm

Page 7 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Lines > Add Reference Line

31Armhole Guide
Start: 30Across Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (down)

Layers > Add Layer

32Outline
Parent: Back Pattern
Name: Outline
Save & Switch

Curves > Add Curve

33Armhole
12Shoulder Tip to 19Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Curve comes over to 30Across Pt and follows the 31Armhole Guide.

Points > Add Point at Intersection

34Intersect
13Neckline RP line, 8Neck Ref Line
Save

Points > Bisect Points

35Curve Guide
Bisect: 7Center Neck, 10Side Neck
Extend: 34Intersect
Distance: 0.375" or 10 mm

Curves > Add Curve

36Neckline
7Center Neck, 10Side Neck
Curve Points: 1
Curve down to 35Curve Guide without passing under 8Neck Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

37Shoulder Line
10Side Neck, 27Shldr Dart Leg 1

Lines > Add Line

38Shoulder Line
28Shldr Dart Leg 2, 12Shoulder Tip

Page 8 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Lines > Add Line

39Side Line
19Armpit, 17Side Waist

Curves > Add Curve

40Waist Curve
17Side Waist, 22Waist Dart Leg 2
Curve Points: 1
Curve very slightly

Curves > Add Curve

41Waist Curve
21Waist Dart Leg 1, 4Waist Ctr
Curve Points: 1
Curve very slightly.

Lines > Add Line

42Center Back
4Waist Ctr, 7Center Neck

Darts > Register Dart

43Waist Dart
Apex: 20Waist Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 21Waist Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 22Waist Dart Leg 2
Direction: 4Waist Ctr
Name: WaistDart

Darts > Register Dart

44Shoulder Dart
Apex: 24Shoulder Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 27Shldr Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 28Shldr Dart Leg 2
Direction: 10Side Neck
Name: ShoulderDart

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

45Center Back SA
If you are going to cut the back on the fold:
Select: 42Center Back
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)

Page 9 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Finish > Curve Truing

46True Neckline
First: 36Neckline
Seam: 42Center Back
Second: 36Neckline
Seam: 42Center Back
Move the neckline green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

Finish > Curve Truing

47True Armhole
First: 33Armhole
Seam: 39Side Line
Second: Front Pattern 24 Armhole
Seam: Front Pattern 31 Side Line
Move the curve points on either armhole to create a smooth transition. Update to view changes.

Layers > Layer Visibility

48Hide Draft
Hide Back Draft Layer

Finish > Add Text at Point

49Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions. (Ex: Cut 1 on Fold, Cut 1 / Flip Cut 1, etc).

Finish > Add Measurement Text

50Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 33Armhole and 36Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

51Center Back Fold
If you are going to cut the back on the fold:
Select: 42Center Back
Make sure the marking is inside the pattern, Other Side if not.

Page 10 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 101-B1
Finish > Add Grainline

52Grainline
If you aren't going to cut the back on the fold:
Vertical
Click near 42Center Back
Length: {Center Length Back} * .75

Finish > Add Seam Allowance

53Seam Allowance
Select: 36Neckline, 37Shoulder Line, 44Shoulder Dart extension lines, 38Shoulder Line, 33Armhole, 39Side Line, 40Waist Curve, 43Waist Dart extension lines, 41Waist Curve, 42Center Back
If the blue seam allowance draws to the inside of the pattern, select Other Side.

Finish > Add Notch

54Armhole Notch
Select: 33Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 19Armpit
Type: Double
Should be outside 33Armhole

Finish > Hide Points

55Hide Points
Hide remaining points.

56
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.