Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro
Bodice Back 103-B1

Category: Sloper

Sizing: Standard or Custom

Adaptation: Modern Pattern Design and Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design

Drafting Difficulty: Beginner

Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts, sleeve cap ease)

Companion Patterns: 103-F1 Bodice Front, 103-S1 Bodice Sleeve


Visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page for this pattern for more information.

Page 2 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Measurements Used:
  • Across Back
  • Armhole Drop
  • Blade Apex Back
  • Blade Height Back
  • Bust Back
  • Bust Ease
  • Center Length Back
  • Full Length Back
  • Neck Back
  • Shoulder Across Back
  • Shoulder Height Back
  • Shoulder Length
  • Shoulder Slope Back
  • Side Length
  • Waist Back
  • Waist Ease

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Companion Patterns

This pattern goes along with the Bodice Front 103-F1 draft. I recommend that you open that draft and add this back pattern to the same file. This allows you to make pattern modifications later that require both the front and back patterns together. Also, this will allow you to true the armhole curves.

Shoulder Dart

A shoulder dart may not be required. If the Neck Point extends beyond the Side Neck Point relative to the Center Neck, discard the Neck Point. Draft the neckline curve through the Side Neck Point and omit the shoulder dart.


Edition: 0926V3

Page 3 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Layers > Add Layer

1Back Draft
Parent: PMP
Name: Back Draft
Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

2Center Neck
This pattern drafts from the left towards the right. Place this point to the right of the front draft.

Points > Add Point from Point

3Center Waist
Base: 2Center Neck
Y: {Center Length Back}

Points > Add Point from Point

4Full Length Ref Pt
Base: 3Center Waist
Y: - {Full Length Back}

Points > Add Point from Point

5Across Ref Pt
Base: 4Full Length Ref Pt
X: {Across Back} / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

6Shoulder Ref Pt
Base: 4Full Length Ref Pt
X: {Shoulder Across Back} / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

7Bust Ref Pt
Base: 4Full Length Ref Pt
X: ({Bust Back} / 2) + ({Bust Ease} / 4)

Lines > Add Reference Line

8Across Ref Line
Start: 5Across Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set distance {Full Length Back}

Page 4 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Lines > Add Reference Line

9Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 6Shoulder Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set distance {Full Length Back}

Lines > Add Reference Line

10Bust Ref Line
Start: 7Bust Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (down)

Points > Point on Line at Distance

11Shoulder
From: 3Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Back}
Line: 9Shoulder Ref Line

Lines > Add Line

12Shldr Length Ref Line
From: 4Full Length Ref Pt to 6Shoulder Ref Pt

Points > Point on Line at Distance

13Side Neck
From: 11Shoulder
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Line: 12Shldr Length Ref Line

Points > Point on Line at Distance

14Neck Pt
From: 2Center Neck
Distance: ({Neck Back} / 2) - 0.125" or 3 mm
Line: 12Shldr Length Ref Line

Points > Point on Line at Distance

15Mid-Arm
From: 11Shoulder
Distance: 4" or 100 mm
Line: 8Across Ref Line

Points > Point on Line at Distance

16Side Ref Pt
From: 15Mid-Arm
Distance: {Shoulder Height Back} - 4" or 100 mm
Line: 10Bust Ref Line

Page 5 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Points > Add Point from Point

17Armpit
Base: 16Side Ref Pt
Y: - ({Side Length} - {Armhole Drop})

Points > Add Point from 2 Points

18Armpit CP Ref
17Armpit, 6Shoulder Ref Pt
X: 6Shoulder Ref Pt
Y: 17Armpit

Points > Bisect Points

19Bisect Armhole
Select: 17Armpit, 6Shoulder Ref Pt
Extend: 18Armpit CP Ref
Distance: 1" or 25 mm

Points > Add Point from Point

20Blade Ht
Base: 3Center Waist
Y: - {Blade Height Back}

Points > Add Point from Point

21Blade Apex
Base: 20Blade Ht
X: {Blade Apex Back} / 2

Points > Add Point from Point

22Dart P1
Base: 3Center Waist
X: [Measure 20Blade Ht to 21Blade Apex] - 0.5" or 13 mm

Points > Add Point on Vector

23Side Waist Pre
Start: 16Side Ref Pt
Vector: 22Dart P1
Distance: ([Measure 3Center Waist to 22Dart P1 to 16Side Ref Pt] - (({Waist Back} / 2) + ({Waist Ease} / 4))) * .25
This measures the waist width on the draft and subtracts the actual waist width to determine the difference. 25% is applied at the side waist and 75% is dart intake.

Page 6 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Points > Add Point from Point

24Dart P2
Start: 22Dart P1
X: ([Measure 3Center Waist to 22Dart P1 to 16Side Ref Pt] - (({Waist Back} / 2) + ({Waist Ease} / 4))) * .75
Make sure you select 16Side Ref Pt and not the 23Side Waist Pre point. This is the same measurement as the prior step with 75% for dart intake.

Points > Add Point on Vector

25Side Waist
Start: 17Armpit
Vector: 23Side Waist Pre,
Distance: {Side Length} - {Armhole Drop}

Points > Add Point from Point

26Shoulder Apex
Base: 14Neck Pt
Y: 3.5" or 90 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

27Neckline Ref
Start: 2Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: One direction (right)

Layers > Add Layer

28Outline Back
Parent: PMP
Name: Outline Back
Save & Switch

Curves > Add Curve

29Neckline
From: 2Center Neck to 14Neck Pt
Curve Points: 1
Drag the point down towards the 27Neckline Ref, but don't drop below it.
(See the note on page 2. This curve may be from 2Center Neck to 13Side Neck)

Page 7 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Curves > Add Curve

30Armhole
From: 11Shoulder to 17Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Drag the top curve point so it goes through the 15Mid-Arm. Drag the lower curve point down to the 19Bisect Armhole and reshape from there.

Lines > Add Line

31Shoulder Line
From: 13Side Neck to 11Shoulder

Lines > Add Line

32Side Line
From: 17Armpit to 25Side Waist

Lines > Add Line

33Waist Line
From: 25Side Waist to 24Dart P2

Lines > Add Line

34Waist Line
From: 22Dart P1 to 3Center Waist

Lines > Add Line

35Center Back
From: 3Center Waist to 2Center Neck

Darts > Register Dart

36Blade Dart
Apex: 21Blade Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 22Dart P1
Dart Leg Fold: 24Dart P2
Direction: 3Center Waist
Name: BladeDart

Darts > Register Dart

37Shoulder Dart
Apex: 26Shoulder Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 14Neck Pt
Dart Leg Fold: 13Side Neck
Direction: 2Center Neck
Name: ShoulderDart

Page 8 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

38Center Back SA
*If you are going to cut the back on the fold:
Select: 35Center Back
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)

Finish > Curve Truing

39True Neckline
First: 29Neckline
Seam: 35Center Back
Second: 29Neckline
Seam: 35Center Back
Move the green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

Finish > Add Text at Point

40Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions

Layers > Layer Visibility

41Hide Drafting
Hide the Back Draft layer.

Finish > Add Measurement Text

42Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 29Neckline and 30Armhole curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.

Finish > Add Grainline

43Grainline
*If you are not going to cut the back on the fold:
Vertical
Click to locate the top/left of the line near 35Center Back
Length: {Center Length Back} * 0.75

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

44Center Back Fold
*If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 35Center Back
Other Side if outside pattern.

Page 9 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Bodice Back 103-B1
Finish > Hide Points

45Hide Points
Hide the points that remain.

Finish > Add Seam Allowance

46Seam Allowance
Select: 31Shoulder Line, 30Armhole, 32Side Line, 33Waist Line, 36Blade Dart Ext Line 1, 36Blade Dart Ext Line 2, 34Waist Line, 35Center Back, 29Neckline, 37Shoulder Dart Ext Line 1, 37Shoulder Dart Ext Line 2
Other Side if inside pattern.

If you have a shoulder dart, you will need to zoom way in to select the dart extension lines. If you miss them, the seam allowance will fail.

Finish > Add Notch

47Armhole Notch
Select: 30Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 17Armpit
Type: Double
Notch should point to selected line.

48Print
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.