Category: Sloper
Sizing: Standard Sizing Tables - 36" bust with 1.25" (32 mm) Cup Size Adjustment used
Adaptation: Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Helen Joseph-Armstrong
Drafting Difficulty: Beginner
Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts)
Companion Patterns: 101-B1 Bodice Back, 101-S1 Bodice Sleeve
Visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page for this pattern for more information.
If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.
PatternMaker ProEach step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
These instructions contain an adjustment that is based on the cup size of the model. To determine your adjustment, subtract the full Underbust measurement from the full Bust measurement. Round the result to the nearest inch or 25 mm.
The Body Type X Calculator #1 doesn't have underbust measurements. The difference 2" was used in this example.
1Seam Allowance
Determine your seam allowances for the draft and set the defaults.
2Start
This drafts to the left, so place this point to the right.
3Center Waist
Base: 2Start
Y: {Full Length Front} + 0.125" or 3 mm
4Shoulder RP
Base: 2Start
X: - (({Shoulder Across Front} / 2) - 0.125" or 3 mm)
5Center Neck
Base: 3Center Waist
Y: - {Center Length Front}
6Neck Ref Line
Start: 5Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (goes left)
7Side Waist RP
Base: 3Center Waist
X: - (({Bust Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6 mm)
8Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 4Shoulder RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (goes down)
9Shoulder Tip
From: 3Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front} + 0.125 or 3 mm
Line: 8Shoulder Ref Line
10Across Ref Line
2Start to 4Shoulder RP
11Side Neck
From: 9Shoulder Tip
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Line: 10Across Ref Line
12Slope Ref Line
9Shoulder Tip to 3Center Waist
13Bust Depth
From: 9Shoulder Tip
Distance: {Bust Depth}
Line: 12Slope Ref Line
14Bust Ht
3Center Waist, 13Bust Depth
X: 3Center Waist
Y: 13Bust Depth
15Bust Apex
Base: 14Bust Ht
X: - (({Bust Apex Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm)
16Chest
Select: 5Center Neck, 14Bust Ht
X: Center
Y: Center
17Across Front
Base: 16Chest
X: - (({Across Front} / 2) + 0.25 or 6 mm)
18Dart Leg 1
Base: 3Center Waist
X: - ({Waist Front} / 4)
Y: 0.1875 or 5 mm
19Side Ref Line
Start: 7Side Waist RP
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set Distance {Full Length Front}
Line goes up
20Side Waist
From: 11Side Neck
Distance: {Side Neck to Waist} + 0.125" or 3 mm
Line: 19Side Ref Line
21Armpit
Base: 20Side Waist
Y: - {Side Length}
22Adjust Side Waist
Locate your Cup Size Adjustment according the instructions on page 2.
Select: 20Side Waist
Pivot: 21Armpit
Distance: Cup Size Adjustment
(1.25" or 32 mm used here)
23Dart Leg 2
Start: 20Side Waist
Vector: 18Dart Leg 1
Distance: ({Waist Front} / 2) + 0.25" or 6 mm - [18Dart Leg 1 to 3Center Waist]
24Armhole Ref Line
Start: 21Armpit
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Set Distance 4" or 102 mm (to right)
25Armhole
21Armpit to 9Shoulder Tip
Curve Points: 2
Do not let the curve drop below 24Armhole Ref Line. The curve comes in toward 17Across Front.
26Neckline Curve Ref
Origin: 11Side Neck
Vector: 9Shoulder Tip
Distance: 5" or 127 mm
Make sure the point goes down.
Save & Line
27Neckline
5Center Neck to 11Side Neck
Curve Points: 1
Don't drop the curve below 6Neck Ref Line or left of 26Neckline Curve Ref
28BustDart
Apex: 15Bust Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 18Dart Leg 1
Dart Leg Fold: 23Dart Leg 2
Direction: 3Center Waist
Name: BustDart
29Center Front
5Center Neck to 3Center Waist
30Waist Line
3Center Waist to 18Dart Leg 1
31Waist Line
23Dart Leg 2 to 20Side Waist
32Side Line
20Side Waist to 21Armpit
33Shoulder Line
9Shoulder Tip to 11Side Neck
34Center Front SA
If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 29Center Front
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)
35True Neckline
First: 27Neckline
Seam: 29Center Front
Second: 27Neckline
Seam: 29Center Front
Move the neckline green curve points to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.
36Outline
33Shoulder Line,27Neckline,29Center Front,30Waist Line,28BustDart- leg stay, leg move, ext line 1, ext line 2, 31Waist Line,32Side Line25Armhole
Move to: New Layer
Name: Outline
Parent: PMP
Save & Switch
37Hide Layer
Hide Draft Layer
38Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.
39Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 25Armhole and 27Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.
40Grainline
If you are not going to cut the front on the fold:
Vertical
Click near 29Center Front
Length: {Center Length Front} * .75
41Seam Allowance
Select: 33Shoulder Line, 27Neckline, 29Center Front,30Waist Line,28BustDart - Ext line 1, Ext line 2, 31Waist Line, 32Side Line, 25Armhole
If the blue seam allowance draws to the inside of the pattern, select Other Side.
42Center Front Fold
If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 29Center Front
Make sure the marking is inside the pattern, Other Side if not.
43Armhole Notch
Select: 25Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 21Armpit
Type: Single
Should be outside 24Armhole Ref Line
44Hide Points
Hide all points that remain.
45Export PDF
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
