Category: Sloper
Sizing: Standard or Custom
Adaptation: Modern Pattern Design and Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design
Drafting Difficulty: Beginner
Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts, sleeve cap ease)
Companion Patterns: 103-B1 Bodice Back, 103-S1 Bodice Sleeve
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If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.
PatternMaker ProEach step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
This sleeve pairs directly with Bodice Front 103-F1 and Bodice Back 103-B1. For the best workflow, open your existing bodice draft and add this sleeve to the same file. Keeping the pieces together makes future pattern alterations and fit checks far simpler.
Edition: 0926V2
1Sleeve Draft
Parent: PMP
Name: Sleeve Draft
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2Cap Ctr
This pattern drafts from the center out. Place this point to the right of the back bodice pattern.
3Wrist Ctr
Base: 2Cap Ctr
Y: {Overarm Length}
4Armhole Measurement
Select: 31Armhole Front Bodice + 30Armhole Back Bodice
Write down total armhole.
5Bicep Ctr
Base: 2Cap Ctr
Y: 4Armhole Measurement / 3
6Bicep Bk
Base: 5Bicep Ctr
X: ({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2
7Bicep Fr
Base: 5Bicep Ctr
X: - ({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2
8Elbow Ctr
Base: 3Wrist Ctr
Y: - {Elbow to Wrist}
9Elbow Bk
Base: 8Elbow Ctr
X: ({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2
10Elbow Fr
Base: 8Elbow Ctr
X: - ({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2
11Fr Cap Ref Line
Start: 10Elbow Fr
Direction: On Vector
Vector: 7Bicep Fr
Length: One direction (up)
12Bk Cap Ref Line
Start: 9Elbow Bk
Direction: On Vector
Vector: 6Bicep Bk
Length: One direction (up)
13Wrist Ref 1
Base: 3Wrist Ctr
X: 0.5" or 13 mm
14Wrist Ref Line
Start: 13Wrist Ref 1
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set distance 4" or 100 mm (down)
15Dart Apex
8Elbow Ctr , 9Elbow Bk
X: Center
Y: Center
16Wrist Ref 2
Base: 13Wrist Ref 1
X: - ({Wrist} + {Wrist Ease}) / 2
17Wrist Ref Circle
15Dart Apex, 16Wrist Ref 2
18Wrist Ref 3
17Wrist Ref Circle, 14Wrist Ref Line
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19Wrist Ref 4
16Wrist Ref 2, 18Wrist Ref 3
X: Center
Y: Center
20Wrist Ref 5
16Wrist Ref 2, 19Wrist Ref 4
X: 16Wrist Ref 2
Y: 19Wrist Ref 4
21Wrist Fr
Base: 20Wrist Ref 5
X: - [Measure 19Wrist Ref 4 to 20Wrist Ref 5]
22Wrist Bk
Start: 18Wrist Ref 3
Vector: 19Wrist Ref 4
Distance: [Measure 18Wrist Ref 3 to 19Wrist Ref 4]
Other Side: Point right of 18Wrist Ref 3.
23Dart Pt Ref
Start: 9Elbow Bk
Vector: 22Wrist Bk
Distance: [Measure 9Elbow Bk to 22Wrist Bk] - [Measure 10Elbow Fr to 21Wrist Fr]
Point draws down from 9Elbow Bk.
24Elbow Fr Ref Line
From: 7Bicep Fr to 21Wrist Fr
25Elbow Ref Line
Start: 10Elbow Fr
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Both directions
26Elbow Offset
24Elbow Fr Ref Line, 25Elbow Ref Line
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27Dart P1
Base: 9Elbow Bk
X: [Measure 10Elbow Fr to 26Elbow Offset]
If 26Elbow Offset is left of 10Elbow Fr, then this point should be left of 9Elbow Bk. Add minus ( - ), negative value.
If 26Elbow Offset is right of 10Elbow Fr, then this point should be right of 9Elbow Bk. Positive value.
28Dart P2
Start: 15Dart Apex
Vector: 23Dart Pt Ref
Distance: [Measure 15Dart Apex to 27Dart P1
29Cap Ref
2Cap Ctr, 5Bicep Ctr
X: Center
Y: Center
30Cap Ref Line
Start: 29Cap Ref
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Both directions
31Fr CP1
Base: 7Bicep Fr
X: - [Measure 5Bicep Ctr to 7Bicep Fr] / 4
Point is right of 7Bicep Fr
32Bk CP1
Base: 6Bicep Bk
X: - [Measure 5Bicep Ctr to 6Bicep Bk] / 6
Point is left of 6Bicep Bk
33Cap Ctr Ref Line
Start: 2Cap Ctr
Direction: Horizontal
Length: Both directions
34Bk CR
12Bk Cap Ref Line, 33Cap Ctr Ref Line
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35Fr CR
11Fr Cap Ref Line, 33Cap Ctr Ref Line
Save
36Bk CP3
Base: 2Cap Ctr
X: [Measure 2Cap Ctr to 34Bk CR] / 4
37Fr CP3
Base: 2Cap Ctr
X: - [Measure 2Cap Ctr to 35Fr CR] / 4
38Bk Cap Ref Line
From: 36Bk CP3 to 32Bk CP1
39Fr Cap Ref Line
From: 37Fr CP3 to 31Fr CP1
40Bk CP2
38Bk Cap Ref Line, 30Cap Ref Line
Save
41Fr CP2
39Fr Cap Ref Line, 30Cap Ref Line
Save
42Sleeve Outline
Parent: PMP
Name: Sleeve Outline
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43Fr Cap Curve
From: 7Bicep Fr to 2Cap Ctr
Curve Points: 3
Bottom curve point to 31Fr CP1, center curve point to 41Fr CP2, top curve point to 37Fr CP3
44Bk Cap Curve
From: 6Bicep Bk to 2Cap Ctr
Curve Points: 3
Bottom curve point to 32Bk CP1, center curve point to 40Bk CP2, top curve point to 36Bk CP3
45Bk Upper
From: 6Bicep Bk to 27Dart P1
46Bk Lower
From: 28Dart P2 to 22Wrist Bk
47Fr Arm
From: 7Bicep Fr to 21Wrist Fr
48Wrist Curve
From: 21Wrist Fr to 22Wrist Bk
Curve Points: 3
Left curve point to 16Wrist Ref 2, center curve point to 19Wrist Ref 4, right curve point to 18Wrist Ref 3. Adjust to a gentle shape.
49Elbow Dart
Apex: 15Dart Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 28Dart P2
Dart Leg Fold: 27Dart P1
Direction: 22Wrist Bk
Name: ElbowDart
50Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions
51Sleeve Ease
Front Armhole: 31Armhole Front Bodice
Back Armhole: 30Armhole Back Bodice
Front Sleeve: 43Fr Cap Curve
Back Sleeve: 44Bk Cap Curve
52Grainline
Vertical
Click to locate the top of the line near 29Cap Ref.
Length: {Underarm Length}
53Front Notch
Select: 43Fr Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 7Bicep Fr
Type: Single
Notch should point to selected line.
54Back Notch
Select: 44Bk Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 6Bicep Bk
Type: Double
Notch should point to selected line.
55Seam Allowance
Select: 43Fr Cap Curve, 44Bk Cap Curve, 45Bk Upper, 49Elbow Dart Ext Line 1, 49Elbow Dart Ext Line 2, 46Bk Lower, 48Wrist Curve, 47Fr Arm
Other Side if inside pattern.
56Hide Points
Hide the points that remain.
57Hide Draft
Hide Sleeve Draft layer.
58Print
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
