Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro
Cowl Neckline

Base Pattern

Initially you will create what is referred to as a Vertical Center Front Control. The resulting pattern is not something that you would use "as is". It creates a pattern that is merely a starting point for more complex designs. In this case, we'll use it to create different cowls.


Cowl Patterns

There are three different sets of instructions for cowls. Cowl #1 incorporates the dart intake into the cowl with no additional fullness. Cowl #2 has the dart intake plus a bit more fullness. Cowl #3 is the deepest cowl with lots of drape. This is the one in the image above.

Page 2 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Cowl Neckline
PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Facing

The center depth of the facing depends on the depth of the cowl, Deeper cowls require a longer facing inside to ensure a clean finish. You can draft the facing as a separate pattern piece; just remember to add seam allowances to both the facing and cowl edges. Using a contrasting or lighter fabric for the facing is also an option, as shown in the sample garment. Facing instructions apply to any of the cowl designs.


Edition: 0926V2



Page 3 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Cowl Neckline

1Starting Bodice
Note the point names for the starting bodice referenced later.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

2Shoulder Slash
Select: RShoulder Line
Distance: Default Center
Save & Split

Darts > Move Dart

3Shoulder Dart
Dart: BustDart
Transfer: 100%
Select: 2Shoulder Slash, CShoulder, DArmpit, ESide Waist, FDart Leg 2
Name: ShldrDart

Lines > Add Reference Line

4Apex Ref Line
Start: HBust Apex
Direction: Horizontal
Length: One direction (right)

Points > Add Point at Intersection

5Center Apex
KCenter Front, 4Apex Ref Line
Save & Split KCenter Front

Page 4 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Cowl Neckline
Layers > Move Items to Layer

6Rotation Layer
Select: 5Center Apex, Upper KCenter Front, ACenter Neck, SNeckline, BSide Neck, RShoulder Line right, 2Shoulder Slash
Type: New Layer
Name: Rotation Layer
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Rotate Layer To

7Rotate
Layer: Rotation Layer
Moving/Target: 2Shoulder Slash, Left Dart Leg Point
Pivot: HApex Point

Darts > Remove Dart

8Remove Dart
Dart: ShldrDart

Lines > Add Reference Line

9Center Ref Line 1
Start: ACenter Neck
Direction: On Vector 5Center Apex
Length: One direction (down)

Lines > Add Reference Line

10Center Ref Line 2
Start: ICenter Waist
Direction: Vertical
Length: One direction (up)

Points > Add Point at Intersection

11Center Front Pt
9Center Ref Line 1, 10Center Ref Line 2
Save
Save & Split

Page 5 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Cowl Neckline
Lines > Add Line

12Shoulder Line
From: CShoulder to BSide Neck

Process > Add Cowl

13Cowl #1
Select Center: 11Center Front Pt,
Select Side: BSide Neck
Select Line/Curve: 10Center Ref Line 2

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Points > Add Point from Point

14Extension Pt
Base: 11Center Front Pt
X: 1" or 25 mm

Lines > Add Reference Line

15Ext Ref Line
Start: ICenter Waist
Direction: On Vector 14Extension Pt
Length: One direction (up)

Process > Add Cowl

16Cowl #2
Select Center: ICenter Waist
Select Side: BSide Neck
Select Line/Curve: 15Ext Ref Line

Shapes > Add Circle at Point

17Depth Circle
Select: BSide Neck
Radius: Enter the depth you want the cowl to be. 12" or 300 mm was used in this example.

Points > Add Free Point

18Vector Pt
Place the point on the circle where it extends the furthest away from BSide Neck and ICenter Waist

Lines > Add Reference Line

19Ext Ref Line
Start: ICenter Waist
Direction: On Vector 18Vector Pt
Length: One direction (up)

Process > Add Cowl

20Cowl #3
Select Center: ICenter Waist
Select Side: BSide Neck
Select Line/Curve: 19Ext Ref Line

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Layers > Move Items to Layer

21Facing Prelim
Select: 12Shoulder Line, Cowl Line 1
Type: New Layer
Name: Facing Prelim
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Mirror Layer

22Facing Ext
Select: Facing Prelim
Parent: PMP
Name: Facing Ext
Points: BSide Neck, Cowl Ext Pt
Offset: 0

Points > Point on Line/Curve

23Shoulder End
Select: Shoulder Mirror Line
Distance: 1.25" or 32 mm
Make sure it is measured from BSide Neck
Save & Split

Points > Point on Line/Curve

24Center End
Select: Center Mirror Line
Distance: 4" or 100 mm
Make sure it is measured from Cowl Ext Pt
Save & Split

Lines > Delete Lines/Curves & Points

25Delete Lines
Select: 23Shoulder End at BSide Neck, 24Center End at Cowl Ext Pt
These lines are not connected to the main pattern and the seam allowance process will fail unless they are redrawn.

Lines > Add Line

26Side Neck Facing
From: BSide Neck to 23Shoulder End point.

Lines > Add Line

27Ctr Neck Facing
From: Cowl Ext Pt to 24Center End point.

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Curves > Add Curve

28Facing Curve
From: 23Shoulder End to 24Center End
Curve Points: 1
Make a gentle curve for the facing edge.

Curves > Add Curve

29Waist Curve
From: ESide Waist to ICenter Waist
Curve Points: 1
Create a very slight curve. Don't drop below the LWaist line.

Finish > Add Grainline

30Bias Grainline
On Bias
Center of the crossed lines
Length: 6" or 150 mm

Lines > Delete Lines/Curves & Points

31Delete Lines
Select: Excess 22Facing Ext past 23Shoulder End, Excess 22Facing Ext past24Center End, SNeckline, Old Center Front lines

Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

32Center SA
Select: Both center lines (Cowl Line 1, Facing Ctr)
Value: Custom
Width: 0

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

33Cut Fold
Select: Cowl Line 1
Other Side if outside pattern.

Utilities > Change Style/Color

34Facing Fold
Select: Cowl Line 2
Style: Red Dashed

Page 9 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Cowl Neckline
Finish > Add Seam Allowance

35Seam Allowance
Select: Select the entire outline of the pattern.
Other Side if inside pattern.

36Finish
Finish up with labeling the pattern, hiding points and hiding or deleting unwanted geometry.