Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro
Scoop Neckline

This lesson guides you through drafting a classic scoop neckline and drafting a matching one-piece neckline facing.

Pattern Requirements & Design Specifications

  • Base Patterns: Front and back bodice slopers/blocks.
  • Scoop Depth: Fully customizable based on preference (this demonstration uses a depth of 5" / 127 mm).
  • Shoulder Width: Narrowed to a finished width of 2" / 50 mm.
  • Neckline Stability: Front and back side-neck points are shifted inward to eliminate excess slack along the seamline, preventing gaping and sagging.
  • Facing: Complete step-by-step instructions for drafting a clean-finish, one-piece all-in-one facing are included.




Page 2 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Scoop Neckline
PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Preparing Your Patterns

Aligning the front and back patterns at the shoulder to draft necklines, collars, or facings is a destructive process. Complete all of your neckline shaping on the original drafts first. When you are ready to create facings, copy the outlines and necessary points from both the front and back onto separate, dedicated layers.

Hide your working layers and build your facings from these duplicates to keep your original blocks intact. While these steps are detailed in the instructions below, using duplicate layers will quickly become second nature for all your drafting.


Edition: 0926V2

Page 3 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Scoop Neckline
Layers > Select Active Layer

1Front Pattern
Switch to the Front Pattern layer.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

2Pre Side Nk Fr
Select: FRShoulder Line Front
End: FCShoulder Front
Distance: 2" or 50 mm
Save & Split

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

3Side Nk Fr
Origin: 2Pre Side Nk Fr
Vector: FCShoulder Front
Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm
Make sure the point is below the 2Pre Side Nk Fr
Save

Points > Point on Line/Curve

4Ctr Nk Fr
Select: FKCenter Front
End: FACenter Neck Front
Distance: 5" or 127 mm
Save & Split

Curves > Add Curve

5Neckline Fr
From: 4Ctr Nk Fr to 3Side Nk Fr
Curve Points: 1
Create a gentle scoop neckline.

Finish > Curve Truing

6True Neckline
First: 5Neckline Fr
Seam: FKCenter Front 1
Second: 5Neckline Fr
Seam: FKCenter Front 1
Move the green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

Page 4 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Scoop Neckline
Lines > Add Line

7Shoulder Line Fr
From: FCShoulder Front to 3Side Nk Fr

Layers > Select Active Layer

8Back Pattern
Switch to the Back Pattern layer.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

9Pre Side Nk Bk
Select: BRShoulder Line Back
End: BCShoulder Back
Distance: 2" or 50 mm
Save & Split

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

10Side Nk Bk
Origin: 9Pre Side Nk Bk
Vector: BCShoulder Back
Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm
Make sure the point is below the 9Pre Side Nk Bk
Save

Lines > Add Line

11Shoulder Line Bk
From: 10Side Nk Bk to BCShoulder Back

Points > Point on Line/Curve

12Ctr Nk Bk
Select: BKCenter Back
End: BACenter Neck Back
Distance: 1" or 25 mm
Save & Split

Curves > Add Curve

13Neckline Bk
From: 12Ctr Nk Bk to 10Side Nk Bk
Curve Points: 1
Great a smooth slight curve.

Page 5 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Scoop Neckline
Finish > Curve Truing

14True Neckline
First: 13Neckline Bk
Seam: BKCenter Back_1
Second: 13Neckline Bk
Seam: BKCenter Back_1
Create a smooth transition. Update to view changes.

Finish > Curve Truing

15True Shoulder
First: 5Neckline Fr
Seam: 7Shoulder Line Fr
Second: 13Neckline Bk
Seam: 11Shoulder Line Bk
Move the green curve points to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.

16Finish Front & Back Patterns
Finish the patterns as you normally would by adding seam allowances, labeling, grainlines, etc.

Now we will move on to the facing.

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

17Facing Trace Front
Select: FDArmpit Front, FQArmhole Front, FCShoulder Front, 7Shoulder Line Fr, 3Side Nk Fr, 5Neckline Fr, 4Ctr Nk Fr, FKCenter Front_1
New Layer: Facing Trace Front
Parent: PMP
Find: (leave blank) Replace: _Facing
Save

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

18Facing Trace Back
Select: BDArmpit Back, BQArmhole Back, BCShoulder Back, 11Shoulder Line Bk, 10Side Nk Bk, 13Neckline Bk, 12Ctr Nk Bk, BKCenter Back_0
New Layer: Facing Trace Back
Parent: PMP
Find: (leave blank) Replace: _Facing
Save & Switch

Layers > Layer Visibility

19Hide Layers
Hide all Layers except the Facing Trace layers.

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Layers > Align Layers

20Align Shoulders
Stay Layer: Facing Trace Front
Move Layer: Facing Trace Back
Stay Target: 3Side Nk Fr
Move Target: 10Side Nk Bk
Stay End: FCShoulder Front
Move End: BCShoulder Back
Overlap: 0 Zero

Curves > Add Curve

21Facing Neckline
From: 4Ctr Nk Fr to 12Ctr Nk Bk
Curve Points: 2
Follow 13Neckline Bk and 5Neckline Fr curves smoothing at the shoulder join. Don't vary more than 0.625 to 0.125 (1.5-3 mm) away from the shoulder point.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

22Facing Ctr Fr
Select: FKCenter Front_1
End: 4Ctr Nk Fr_Copy
Distance: 3" or 225 mm
Save & Split

Points > Point on Line/Curve

23Facing Ctr Bk
Select: BKCenter Back_0
End: 12Ctr Nk Bk_Copy
Distance: 3" or 225 mm
Save & Split

Curves > Add Curve

24Facing Curve
From: 22Facing Ctr Fr to 23Facing Ctr Bk
Curve Points: 4
Create a smooth edge for the facing not crossing the armhole outline.

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Finish > Change Line/Curve Seam Allowance

25Adj Seam Allowance
Select: 24Facing Curve and whichever center line will be cut on the fold (FKCenter Front_1_Facing_0 or BKCenter Back_0_Facing_1).
Value: Custom
Width: 0 Zero

Layers > Move Layer

26Facing Outline
Select: FKCenter Front_1_Facing_0, 24Facing Curve, BKCenter Back_0_Facing_1, 21Facing Neckline
Type: New Layer
Name: Facing Outline
Parent: PMP
Save & Switch

Finish > Add Cut on Fold

27Cut Fold
Select: Whichever center line will be cut on the fold (FKCenter Front_1_Facing_0 or BKCenter Back_0_Facing_1)
Other Side if outside pattern.

Points > Add Point at Intersection

28Shoulder Seam Align Pt
24Facing Curve, Either FRShoulder Line Front OR BRShoulder Line Back
Style: Blue Solid
Save

Finish > Add Seam Allowance

29Seam Allowance
Select: FKCenter Front_1_Facing_0, 24Facing Curve, BKCenter Back_0_Facing_1, 13Neckline Bk 5Neckline Fr
Type: Single

Finish > Add Text at Point

30Facing Label
Select a location for the pattern label. Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions

Page 8 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Scoop Neckline

31Export PDF
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print.

Finish > Hide Points

32Hide Points
Hide points.

Layers > Layer Visibility

33Hide Layers
Hide other layers.