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Grading Explained

What is Grading?​

Grading means making the same pattern in a range of sizes, such as Small, Medium and Large. On paper, a patternmaker works out how far every point moves from one size to the next. These movements are called grade rules, and there can be dozens of them for one pattern.

PatternMaker Pro skips the grade rules. You draft the pattern in two sizes, and PMP works out how every point moves. It then draws all the sizes in between for you.

Two Drafts: Base and Vector​

You need the same pattern drafted twice:

  • The base is your starting size, such as a Small.
  • The vector is the same pattern in a larger or smaller size, such as a Large. The distance each point moved from the base shows PMP which way and how far to grade it.

The easiest way to get both is to use a memorized draft. It doesn't matter which measurements you used to draft the original.

  1. Create a measurement set for each of two sizes in your size range.
  2. Select Memorized Draft > Import Draft and choose your memorized pattern.
  3. Choose the first measurement set.
  4. Name the draft for its size, such as Small 8-10 Base.
  5. Select SVG > Export SVG and save the base pattern on your computer.
  6. Select Memorized Draft > Import Draft again, with the same memorized pattern.
  7. Choose the second measurement set.
  8. Name this draft for its size, such as Large 14-16 Vector.
  9. Select SVG > Import SVG and choose the base pattern you saved in step 5. The base and the vector are now in the same draft.
tip

Your original drafts are not changed. PMP copies the shapes it needs for grading and leaves the originals as they are.

Steps for Grading​

Use these tools in order:

  1. Grade Patterns. Name the set, enter the number of sizes, and choose which size is the base, which is the vector and which are in between. Then select the layer that holds the base and the layer that holds the vector. PMP pairs the points, checks that the two patterns match, and draws every size.
  2. Activate Base Pattern. Choose the set you want to work on. Its base pattern becomes the active layer.
  3. Add the finishing details with the Grading tools, such as seam allowance, grainlines, notches and text. Each tool is applied to every size at once. Select Show All Sizes to check them.
  4. Layered PDF Output. Print the set with each size on its own PDF layer, so you can show or hide sizes before printing.
info

Point names matter. A base point and a vector point with the same name are paired automatically. If a point can't be paired, PMP shows it to you so you can choose the match yourself.

🧠Memorization

Do not memorize the draft you are grading. A draft can't be recalled in its graded state.

tip

New to grading? The Academy explains sizing and how patterns change from one size to the next.