Add Collar Tool

What it Does

Drafts a collar that fits your neckline. You select the front and back neckline lines and curves, and the tool measures them to size the collar. It then draws the collar pattern pieces for you.

Use this when you want a stand collar, a one-piece convertible collar or a two-piece convertible collar, and you want it to match the neckline you already drafted.

The tool can draft three types:

• Mandarin / Stand Only is a band that stands up around the neck.
• One-Piece Convertible is a stand and a fold-over collar drawn as one piece.
• Two-Piece Convertible is a separate stand piece and a separate collar piece.

The collar pieces are drawn in a new Collar Layer inside the active layer. A two-piece collar has the stand and the collar on their own layers inside it.

How to Use

Every collar starts with these steps.

1. Activate the tool by clicking the Add Collar icon
2. Select the lines and curves that make up the front neckline, from center front to the shoulder, then select Continue. Their combined length sizes the collar
3. Select the lines and curves that make up the back neckline, from center back to the shoulder, then select Continue
4. Enter the Stand Height in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the height of the band that stands up around the neck
5. Select the type of collar: Mandarin / Stand Only, One-Piece Convertible or Two-Piece Convertible, then select Continue

What happens next depends on the type you chose. Follow the steps for your type below. Both convertible types ask for the same three values first, and then all types finish with the steps under Finish Any Collar.

Mandarin / Stand Only

1. Go straight to Finish Any Collar below. There are no extra values to enter

One-Piece Convertible

1. Enter the Fall Height in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the height of the collar that folds over the stand. The box starts at the stand height plus 0.25 in or 6 mm, which is a common choice
2. Enter the Point Spread in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the distance between the collar points at center front. The tool tells you which value, in your draft's unit, makes the points parallel to center front (1.5 in, 4 cm or 40 mm)
3. Enter the Point Adjustment in the unit shown, then select Continue. This extends the collar points beyond the collar height. Leave it at 0 for no change
4. Go to Finish Any Collar below

Two-Piece Convertible

1. Enter the Fall Height in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the height of the collar above the stand. The box starts at the stand height plus 0.25 in or 6 mm, which is a common choice
2. Enter the Point Spread in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the distance between the collar points at center front. The tool tells you which value, in your draft's unit, makes the points parallel to center front (1.5 in, 4 cm or 40 mm)
3. Enter the Point Adjustment in the unit shown, then select Continue. This extends the collar points beyond the collar height. Leave it at 0 for no change
4. Go to Finish Any Collar below

Finish Any Collar

1. Enter the Fastener Extension in the unit shown, then select Continue. This is the extra width for a button closure, usually the button width. Leave it at 0 for no extension
2. Click in the workspace where the lower right point of the collar pieces should go. Click again to move it
3. Select Continue to draft the collar
4. Select Save to keep the collar, or Cancel to discard it

The lower right point is the center back of the stand. The collar is drawn to the left of it and above it. A two-piece collar draws the collar piece above the stand piece.

info

You can type a number or a formula in the value boxes. See Entering Values.

tip

To change the shape of the collar, move any of the curve points after you save.

🧠Memorization

When you memorize a draft, the collar is remembered along with the neckline lines and the values you entered.

For more on how these collars are built, see Convertible & Stand Collars in the Academy.