add-hem

Add Hem Tool

What it Does

Creates intelligent hem allowances that automatically compensate for pattern curvature, width changes, and fabric type. The tool analyzes the hemline geometry and connected side edges to calculate the precise hem allowance shape needed for clean folding without distortion.

For wovens, the tool mirrors the adjoining side seam angles across the fold line to eliminate narrowing and puckering when pressed. For knits, it creates a standard parallel allowance with perpendicular edges, relying on fabric stretch for clean recovery.

info

The tool's curvature compensation is especially valuable for flared skirts, bell-bottom pants, and A-line garments where a simple parallel extension would create puckering or stretching when folded.

How to Use

1. Activate the tool by clicking the Add Hem icon
2. Choose the fabric type:
   • Woven
   • Knit
3. Select an edge line or curve for the hemline (this edge must be connected to other lines/curves at both ends)
4. Select the side lines or curves adjacent to the hem line to define the garment boundaries
5. Choose your hem type and enter dimensions:
   • Single Turn Hem: Enter a Hem Depth value
   • Double Turn Hem: Enter a Raw Edge Turn value
6. Click Preview to visualize the calculated hem allowance
7. Click Save to create the hem or Cancel to abort

Hem Depth vs. Raw Edge Turn

Hem Depth

Enter just the finished hem measurement. The system will automatically add whatever seam allowance is already set for the hem edge.

Raw Edge Turn

This sets the seam allowance for the hem edge. If left at the default 0, no seam allowance will be added. Use this when you want to specify a seam allowance.

warning

The hemline edge must be connected to other pattern elements at both ends. Isolated lines cannot be processed by the program.