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Add Hem Tool Icon

Add Hem Tool

What it Does​

Adds a hem allowance to the bottom edge of a pattern piece. The hem allowance is the extra fabric below the hemline that is folded up and sewn. The tool draws it for you, including the two side edges that continue down to meet it.

Use this when your skirt, pants, sleeve or top has a finished hemline and you need the extra fabric below it.

The tool draws the hem differently for the two fabric types:

  • Woven: the side edges are mirrored across the hemline. This keeps the folded hem from being too narrow or too wide when the hem is pressed up. It matters most on flared or tapered pieces.
  • Knit: the side edges are drawn straight down at a right angle to the side seam, so the hem stays an even width. Knits stretch, so they can handle this.

How to Use​

  1. Activate the tool by clicking the Add Hem icon
  2. Select the Fabric Type, Woven or Knit. Woven is selected to start with
  3. Select Continue
  4. Select the edge line or curve where the hem goes, then select Continue. This is the hemline
  5. Select the two lines or curves on either side of the hem line, then select Continue. These are the side edges that meet the ends of the hemline
  6. Enter the Hem Depth, in the unit shown. This is the width of one fold. It must be more than 0
  7. If you want a seam allowance on the raw edge of the hem, enter the Raw Edge Turn. See below for what this does
  8. Select Continue to draw the hem
  9. Select Save to keep the hem, or Cancel to leave without adding it

Hem Depth and Raw Edge Turn​

Hem Depth is how deep the hem allowance is, measured down from the hemline.

Raw Edge Turn is the extra amount folded under at the raw (cut) edge, as in a double fold hem. It is set as the seam allowance of the new hem edge. It starts at 0, which adds no extra allowance. For a single fold hem, leave it at 0.

warning

The side lines must meet the ends of the hem line. If they do not, the tool tells you and you need to select Cancel and start again with different side lines.

info

The hem depth must be greater than 0. If it is 0 or empty, a message asks you to enter a depth.

🧠Memorization

When you memorize a draft, the hem is remembered along with the fabric type, the lines you selected, and the Hem Depth and Raw Edge Turn you entered.