Add Fastener Extension Tool

What it Does

Adds the extra width a garment edge needs for buttons or other fasteners. A fastener extension is the strip beyond the center line that overlaps the other side of the opening and holds the buttons or buttonholes. The tool draws the extension and its fold lines for you.

Use this when you want a button band, or any closure that overlaps at center front or center back.

There are two types of extension:

• Self-Facing is made as part of the same pattern piece. The extension folds back inside the garment.
• Applied Facing makes the main piece wider by the fastener width. The rest of the extension is drawn as a separate pattern on a new layer, which is sewn on to the edge.

You also choose how many times the extension folds, Single Fold or Double Fold.

How to Use

Every fastener extension starts with these steps.

1. Activate the tool by clicking the Fastener Extension icon
2. Select the line the fastener extension is added to, usually center front or center back, then select Continue. This line shows in blue
3. Select the two lines or curves joined to the top and bottom of the blue line, then select Continue
4. Enter the Extension Width in the unit shown, then select Continue. For buttons this is usually the button diameter
5. Select the type of extension, Self-Facing or Applied Facing
6. Select the number of folds, Single Fold or Double Fold
7. Select Continue to draw the extension
8. Select Save to keep the extension, or Cancel to discard it

The width must be greater than 0. If it is 0, nothing happens until you enter a larger value.

Self-Facing and Single Fold are selected to start, so you can skip steps 5 and 6 if you want those. The sections below show what each choice draws.

Self-Facing

The extension is drawn on a new Self Facing layer, as part of the same pattern. The outer edge of the extension is drawn as a dashed red fold line.

Applied Facing

The main pattern is made wider by the fastener width. Its new outer edge is a solid black cutting line. The facing is drawn on a second new layer named Applied Facing, which you sew to that edge.

Single Fold

The extension folds once, to end underneath the center line.

Double Fold

The extension folds once, and then folds again to end underneath the center line. The tool draws a second dashed red fold line and the outer edge of the extension beyond it.

info

The original center line turns grey. If you add buttons and buttonholes, place them on that grey line.

tip

Solid black lines are the cutting lines. Dashed red lines are fold lines.

info

The extension width must be greater than 0. If it is 0 or empty, a message asks you to enter a width.

🧠Memorization

When you memorize a draft, the fastener extension is remembered along with the width, type and folds you chose.

For more on extension types and when to use them, see Fastener Extensions in the Academy.